F/W 1994 Nina Ricci Haute Couture Silver Cord & Hand Made Pink Lace Dress
The Nina Ricci Haute Couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and became one of the pre-eminent couture ateliers in the world. In 1964, Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay, Nina Ricci's former designer assistant who took over the atelier in 1954. Over the following three decades, his Haute Couture vision "celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day." This gown is from the Fall 1994 collection under his creative direction and I have included the runway reference photo here. In an interview with WWD in 1995, Pipart mentioned the state of couture upon his arrival to Nina Ricci, "When I arrived everyone was predicting the death of couture, so I was keen to get in for what were meant to be the final few years. And, despite what people like Pierre Bergé and many others predicted, couture has lasted a lot longer than anyone ever thought." Pipart's designs were often focused on avant-garde structures like this amazing creation,
This gown, from the Fall 1994 collection, is a wonderful example of Pipart's vision for the house and is a stunning example of the work that the atelier was producing during this time period. The gown is created from a hand made, pale dusty pink lace. Each floral design in the lace has been outlined with a fine silver metallic cording and the interior of each flower detailed with a metallic pink cording. Every stitch is done by hand and the hours that would have been put just into the construction of the dress and the making of the lace are mind-boggling. The skirt is finished in a structured tulip style with the front crossing over itself and set on a beautiful upwards curve, so that when you walk you see a glimpse of leg. At the back is an inset of a matching colored pale pink silk. This inset of silk has has been sharply knife pleated and expands and opens into an extensive train. A decorative row of silk buttons details each sleeve and trail down the back for the perfect finish. My client purchased this fairly recently and wore it for her wedding dress, changing into another dress for the reception. It is the perfect choice for a bride who does not want a traditional wedding gown but would also be a stunning gown for a gala event. Excellent overall condition with notes to review below.
The gown is fully hand lined in pink silk and closes with a back, hand set, zipper. Has an inner waist stay and has hand set snaps to close the train over the inner zipper. Zippers also run down each cuff behind the buttons. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely made by hand. The proper Haute Couture label is present. Note that the dress shows grubbiness and marks under the hem and along the train and the edge of the hem from where it hits the ground. There is some discoloration under each arm on the inner lining and a teeny spot where this shows through along the edge of the seam. It is not anywhere that would show in a photo once on. I have photoed all of these areas and they are provided here after the label photo. Note that my client wore this gown for the ceremony and then changed - all of the current marks on the dress were all present when she purchased it. She had the back silk train re-pleated and the side seams were let out slightly, all done by Madame Paulette's in NYC, work that was approximately $1500 to complete. Everything mentioned is very minor overall and it is stunningly beautiful in person. None of the items mentioned effect its presentation when on.
Bust: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 19.5" from top of bodice to dropped waist
Skirt: approx 26" from waist to shortest part where the front curves meet. It curves to 42" at the sides and drops to 49" at the longest part of the lace covered skirt at the back. The silk pleated train extends to 61" from the dropped waist
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Reference Photo: F/W 1994 Nina Ricci Haute Couture
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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