Fall 2008 Yves Saint Laurent by Stefano Pilati Runway Metal Sequin Coat
The Fall 2008 shows was perhaps the one that Pilati's time at YSL is most remembered for. The shocking bowl hair cuts on every model an the stark black lip were instantly seen around the world. Vogue's review of the collection, by Sarah Mower, stated in part: "They looked like an army of futuristic female automata, marching out in identical black-bowl wigs and black lipstick, some with their eyes blanked out by narrow slivers of wraparound sunglasses...It made one of the season's most joltingly dramatic contributions to the current dialogues about tailoring and austerity.... it threw up some fine pieces, like jackets with swaggering, flying tails ... Something about the carapace stiffness of these garments, the sense that the clothes are molded rather than fitted, puts Pilati in line with other designers, like Nicolas Ghesquière, who are pushing fashion away from the body and toward something new. In Pilati's case, the impact—with its almost complete abnegation of romanticism and traditional femininity—was a shock. Still, fashion sorely needs those who dare, and this is a collection whose controversial content and implications will be discussed and dissected for months to come."
This was Look 37 in the show and was the second to last piece shown to close the show. It is a jacket that zips up at the front and has exactly what was described above, swaggering, flying tails, as well as exaggerated hip panels and a cut that glides away from the body to create a abundance of volume as it nears the hem. The front is just a touch too short to properly get away with it as a dress, though I did belt it with my own belt and then put it over dotted tights and a pair of boy shorts for the photo that I have included here of myself in it. On the runway it was layered over tapered pants and a thin, silk cami. It is collarless and zips up the front with a big chunky zipper that has the YSL logo embossed onto it. When the jacket reaches the hip, there is a angular panel of fabric sewn around the hips that create a tremendous pannier effect on either side. The way it is placed makes it feel like there are layers of the fabric there and it is quite ingenious. It is also cut to feel very voluminous for its actual tagged size. The cut is very generous. The entire jacket is covered in hand sewn, glossy black metal sequins that give the coat its futuristic feel. It was never worn so like buying new. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a black silk and zips to close at the front. Tagged a 38 FR but very generously cut through the body so if the shoulders work then it should fit a range of sizes
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 32.5" from neck to front hem, 42" to the back hem. The longest points of the front hang to 45" from the neck
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Reference Photos: (1-2) F/W 2008 Yves Saint Laurent Runway, Look 37. Model: Aline Weber. / (3) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture/
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
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