This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric directly from them. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. I was not able to find any exact references for this one. It does bear a striking similarity to the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces and I have included some if those iconic photographs here. Most likely this would have been one of Mies own couture designs. It is absolutely unbelievable in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes have been done by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a fine black silk taffeta and then parts of the design are edged in a beautiful black Chantilly lace. These fabric choices help it to hold its intended shape and give it the lovely volume that you see. The dress has weight to it but it is not overwhelming once on the body. There are so many yards of fabric used in the construction of this gown that it is mind boggling. The neckline is cut wide across so that it sits off the shoulder. This leaves that bare expanse of skin showing that balances the volume of the dress below. It top is very elaborate. There is a six inch cape feeling ruffle that wraps all the way around your shoulders. This was then edged with a 3.5" band of that stunning handmade black lace. Under that the sleeves are set to peek out to give the illusion of a double cape detail but they are actually true sleeves. They are cut very wide and full and each is also edged in the lace to give the bodice a tiered effect on each side. The actual bodice skims loosely over you and there is a black velvet bow at the centre of the neckline. The waist comes in for shape and I added a grosgrain ribbon to pick up on the bow at the neck and define the waist more. The skirt is a masterpiece. It curves out from the waist and falls to the floor where it widens out even more as it nears the hem. It is made up of three full layers. Inside the skirt is a full built in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and part way up the skirt to help hold the volume. Little ruffles run along the seams of this lining where it is pieced together despite the fact that no one would ever see them. The next layer is an exterior one and it is also made of the black silk taffeta. It has two ruffled tiers at the hem, each of which is edged with the black lace. Where the tiers start near the bottom there is another built in band of netting inside to hold the volume on this layer as well. Then the top taffeta layer falls over those two layers. It is cut to end just above top tier of the middle layer. It curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist and the lines this creates are gorgeous. The final result of all these tiers and layers is incredibly beautiful. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement the detailing on this dress is mind boggling. The dress is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included a shot of one of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with one note below

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and constructed as described above. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards. There is a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn 

Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3882

Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This is from my same client whose aunt purchased from Ady Couture who I explained in depth in this listing while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to couture standards. He designed many piece for the Queen of Brussels and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces using the patterns and buying the fabric direct. . After some research I think this is inspired  by the Fall 1982 Givenchy collection. In that collection he had many pieces that had similar silhouettes to this one. Given her overall wardrobe, her love of couture, it is not a stretch to make that leap. It is beyond beautiful in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far. 

The level that this dress is made to is a beautiful thing to see. All of the finishes are by hand and it has all those lovely details that you expect in a couture level garment. It is made out of a black silk taffeta and this fabric choice helps it to hold its intended shape. On the main body of the dress the silk has been finished with hand embroidered roses. These are made with a chenille velvet thread that is worked through the silk to form large roses that cover the entire dress. Scattered over and around the roses are dots that are made with the same chenille. This gives the dress an incredible 3D texture and and depth. The flowers also add such a lovely and romantic feel to the dress. The bodice is more fitted and the neckline is scooped low across the front. It buttons to close down the front and then there is an elaborate set of snaps and hooks that follow the waist line and carry over to the side where there is a hidden set zipper. The top is cut to follow your curves and the waist is cinched in. The sleeves are a work of art. Each is made on a curve to follow the shape of the arm. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume there. They then taper down to the wrist. The skirt is equally well made. It curves out from the hips, falling to the floor, and then widens out as it nears the hem. Inside the skirt is a full built in black silk under-skirt. That inner skirt is finished with an edging of black silk ruffles and it set slight below the top skirt in length. So when you move a certain way or sit you get just a glimpse of the ruffles at the hem. This technique also helps to hold the shape of the skirt. I think my favourite detail is the rolled pleats that circle the waist. Each is made by hand and each perfectly matches its neighbour. The hours of work that it would have taken to implement these is mind boggling. The interior is made to couture standards with all the inner seams finished by hand. I have included some shots of the inner seams for you to see. It is extraordinary and the kind of quality and beauty that you will only find with vintage. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk crepe chiffon. There is a built in black silk taffeta inner skirt. It closes with button and loops down the front. At the waist there is an elaborate series of silk covered snaps and hooks that close along the waist line and then it zips at the side with a hidden set fine metal zipper. Inner waist stay that hooks to close. There is at least an inch and a bit of fabric on either side of each inner seams through the bodice to let it out if needed. The inside is all hand done and it is finished to couture standards. 

Sleeves: 24"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 42" from waist to hem with 3" turned under the hem 

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3682

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

This fabulous dress is the twin of the dress that walked the Spring 1986 Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche runway. I was so pleased to find some shots of it on because it really shows you just how much it comes to life when worn. On the runway Yves put a short curved cropped bolero over it for part of the walk. An interesting thing to note about this dress is that it is a version of the 1973 plunge dress that I have shared on my Instagram in the past. This one has different detailing at the waist and a fuller skirt. I always find it interesting to see how Yves revisited ideas throughout his career. I love having such a well documented piece in the shop and it doesn't hurt that it is drop dead gorgeous.

This is a dress that is insanely sexy and bare feeling and yet the black colour and minimal lines keep it feeling fresh. The dress is made out of a black silk jersey that has amazing drape and feels easy-to-wear once on the body. The bodice has a halter style front that plunges right to the waist. The sides are also left open and bare to the waist and then there is a last final deep plunge at the back that leaves most of the back bare. Despite its bareness it is cleverly cut so that when you have it on it stays perfectly in place. The waist has a wide band of the same fabric that has been gathered in two horizontal stacked on top of each other. This  banded detailing sits just under the base of the plunge. Under that the skirt flows to the floor in a sweep of silk jersey. There is a tremendous amount of fabric in the skirt and this gives the skirt beautiful movement when you move. It is stunning and a dress you can wear in many different ways, on its own, with things layered over it, or under. Excellent condition with a minor note below

 The dress unlined through the bust and skirt and closes with a side zipper. The waist is back by a band of black lining for a little added structure. Tagged 38 with a hand written context tag. If you hold the fabric of the skirt up to light there are some small pinholes scattered throughout towards the hem. It held up beautifully to cleaning and they are stable. With the amount of fabric in a skirt you would never see them unless you specifically hold it up to the light. It otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all.

Bust: each triangle covers up to 10" across with no true side seams
Underbust: 15" across at the top and under the bust from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam at the middle seam of the waist
Hips: open
Bodice: 12.5" from top of bodice to top seam of band
Banding: 4.5"
Skirt: 42" from the bottom seam of band to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4255

Reference Photos: Spring 1986 Yves Saint Laurent Runway.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I love all of the pieces by Bill Tice that I bring into the shop. Most, including this one, were made in the 1980-1981 time period. His easy-to-wear and glamorous jersey pieces have been worn by countless celebrities for the red carpet and events. Every girl that has bought one of his pieces through me has absolutely loved it. This is the first time I have had one of these long open jackets in the shop and I'm absolutely obsessed with it

It is made of a black jersey that is meant to mimic the feel of silk jersey. This is one of those things that is a fail-safe piece that you know is going to work every time you put it on. This fabric has the added bonus of traveling very well. It is the kind of piece you can throw into your suit case and slip on over just about anything upon arrival with either flats or heels and you are instantly ready to walk out the door. It is cut to feel long and slim with pleats running down its full length. It has gold cording that defines the collar, the bodice and back, around the arms and the cuffs. There's also a long stripe of the gold cording that follows the ties that close it at the neck. To wear it you just slip it on and tie it at the neck with those ties. The fabric is very light so when you move this has a ton of movement and will billow out around and behind you. It's fantastic. Excellent condition.

Unlined and ties at the top of the neck. The easy cut and open front should allow it to fit a range of sizes

Sleeves: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: 26"+ flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED

Item# DD4247

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

I absolutely love the cut of this dress. It is made out of a beautiful pink silk taffeta that has a slight iridescent quality to it. The choice of this silk gives it just enough structure to hold the shape but allows it to feel almost weightless once on. That fabric choice mixed with the soft billowing cut that it has gives it feeling of high drama. The bodice is cut to skim over the torso and the neckline is cut so that it is scooped at the front and the back. The sleeves are unlined and are cut to be extremely full and wide so that they billow out to just past the elbow and above the elastic at each cuff. The dress can be worn off the shoulder as I have shot it for a bare expanse of skin to show across the top or fully on the shoulders. The shoulders on the bodice are edged with a little matching silk ruffles along their tops for a pretty detail. The front is set with an elaborate design made of little glass tube beads that are set in a 3D pattern that comes off of the silk. These are then mixed with clear iridescent and facetted beading. The beading follows the neckline and then comes down into a point towards the waist. It is repeated at the back where it is even more densely applied. The beads catch the light wonderfully and add a little bit of sparkle to the dress. The skirt is very long and full. It flows to the floor in a cascade of silk. I have shown it without any underskirts but you could easily add a crinoline if you wanted even more fullness. A long matching silk sash cinches in the waist. The dress has a fantastic romantic, pretty and light feel, but is still sexy and beautiful. Excellent condition.

The bodice is lined in a matching silk, the sleeves in a silk organza and the skirt is lined in a pink cotton feeling fabric. It closes with a back painted metal zipper. Each cuff has elastic. Has its original matching sash belt. Hand finishes.

Sleeves: 18"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at inner lining: open
Bodice: 18" from shoulder to waist
Slightly dropped skirt: 42" from waist to hem
Sash: 11" x 90"

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD4237

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Vicky Tiel was backed by Elizabeth Taylor as a young designer after working on the costumes for 'Whats New Pussycat'. After a stint with a partner she launched her self named label in Paris in 1970. She as one of the very early boutique owner/designer that offered a ready-to-wear option in Paris. That said, her clothes often walk a fine line between ready-to-wear and couture in terms of their construction and techniques used. By the mid to late seventies her style had developed into the ultra sexy and feminine clothing that she is now known best for. By the eighties and into the nineties, she had a cult celebrity following. This is a stunning example of just how gorgeous and dramatic her work could get.

This is a spectacular two piece set in a ivory silk. It is an early example of Vicky Tiel's talent and ability to work and tailor a pieces while working with very fine fabrics. I love the versatility of having the two pieces. It means that you can mix and match them with existing pieces. The colour of the set lends itself to be a great piece for a potential court or more casual wedding or any other great event. Both pieces very light in weight and the silk is very fine. The skirt is a masterpiece. It is banded at the waist and then there are two tiers of fabric under that. The top tier is completely and meticulously pleated with tiny precise knife pleats. At just about the knee the second panel creates a more ruffled feel to the hem. The pleats on the bottom tier open out as they near the hem. The skirt has a lot of fabric and can be worn with or without a crinoline. I have photoed it both ways so you can see the fullness you can achieve. The jacket has a strong nod to the Victorian era with those amazing puffed shoulders. Each shoulder is very full at the top and then narrows down to the wrist. The waist is nipped in and below that is a feminine little hip peplum. The collar is neat and rounded and it closes with a series of silk covered buttons down the front. It is just a gorgeous little set. Excellent condition with a small note below.

Both pieces are unlined. The jacket closes with silk covered buttons down the front and the skirt closes with a side zipper and flat hook & eye at the waist. Light padding in each shoulder. Hand finished throughout. I see one mark on the skirt and a very tiny one on the top. Please see the two photos after the label shot. It is slightly creamier in colour in person.

Top
Neck: 16" around
Shoulders: 15" across
Sleeves: 25" long
Bust: to 18" flat across the back from seam to seam
Waist: 13" flat across the back from seam to seam
Length: 21" from neck to hem

Skirt
Waist: 12-13" flat across from side to side
Hips: open
Length: 29" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing equivalent: XS-SML

Item# DD4211

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

The Capriccio label was founded in 1987 and they quickly grew in popularity. During the late 1980s and early 1990s they were the brand to wear and they were known for their historically based designs with the added volume and excess of the eighties. Some of the Capriccio stores had an in-store area where you could get custom pieces in silks and based on the rest of the pieces from the estate I have been working through lately this may be one of those. It is incredible and it would make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event. It is just so spectacular. 

This is actually a set and I love that about it because it makes it that much more versatile. You can wear it together for the full on effect or mix and match either with simpler pieces from your wardrobe for an entirely different feel. I also think there is the possibility that the top could be worn as an ultra-mini depending on how it sits on you. Both pieces are made out of a tea stain feeling coloured silk organza. This fabric choice helps to keep the volume and shape that you see. It also keeps both pieces extremely light in weight. The top is spectacular. It is cut so that it skims down and past the hips and has a back and front draped panel at the center that extends down over the skirt. It is shaped through the waist by the way that the fabric is formed and gathered into the middle. Pin tuck detailing runs from the collar to that panel on both the front and back. Elaborate floral appliqué work adorns the entire front and details part of the back. The collar is high and the top is cut to skim over the bust. The sleeves pouf out dramatically and are caught up with a little clusters of lace appliqué and beadwork. This gives them that extreme full volume feel but they still have a sense of  shape and detail. The lower portion of the sleeves are gathered all along the lower arm to the wrist. Each is then finished with appliqué work all the way down. The skirt below that has incredible volume and fullness. It is cut to be more fitted over the top of the hips and then opens out to that incredible volume that you see. When laid out flat the lower portion under the hips is a full circle skirt. Depending on your height it will be full length or fall to just about the ankle. The amount of detailing on this piece is fantastic. This may not be a piece for everyone but on the right person this is going to be unbelievably spectacular. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition

The top is made from a double layer of the organza and the skirt has an inner cream silky rayon lining. The top slips over the head to wear with pearl buttons at the back of the neck and on each cuff. The skirt closes with a zipper and flat hook and eye at the waist. Rolled padding on the very edge of the inner shoulder to help support the volume. The top is tagged a size small and the skirt a medium. You could get a little more room on the neck by moving the buttons probably up to 1/2-3/4" depending on where you place them.

Top
Sleeves: 23"
Slightly extended shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from neck to longest point at the front and approx 28" to the sides.
Neck: 15" around

Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam at the hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 42" from waist to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD4198

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.