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This Chanel hat is from the Fall of 1996 and it is gorgeous. I found a editorial shot of Stella Tenant wearing a version of it that was shot by Karl himself. The hat is so dramatic and easy to wear. It is meant to sit lightly on the top of the head and then you can play with which direction you want the feathers to face. It can be worn with the feathers towards the front, either side, or to the back and sit as high or low as you want. This gives it so much versatility in styling it and the feel of it completely changes depends on how you place it on your head. It has its original attached comb in place. The feathers are full and glossy. It is stunning. Excellent condition
Secures to the head with a comb. The base is a black felt wool. Because of the half hat / cap design is should fit any size head. Each side of the triangle shape measures about 8" long.
Item# A339
Reference Photo: Stella Tennant by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Fall 1996.
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SIZE GUIDE
Please review all measurements carefully. More often than not, vintage garments do not fit any size category exactly. If in doubt, measure a garment of your own that fits and is a similar cut and compare it's measurements to the listed measurements below.
SEE MORE FROM CHANEL
chanel
Beautiful Pre-Fall 2020 Chanel by Virginie Viard Runway Look 37 Silver Sequin, Pearl & Crystal Skirt
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I have a small grouping of Chanel pieces that will be listing over the next week or so and they all come from an avid Couture and Chanel collector. Many of these pieces were extremely difficult to source when they were released and were only made in very limited quantities. They are in pristine condition and all but one have their original shop packet that has the extra fabric and style information. These are exceptional pieces for the collector and each is extremely special.
This skirt is exceptional. It's from the Pre-fall 2020 collection and it's twin walk the runway for Look 37. This is a wonderful piece of Chanel and is extremely well-made. The was a Metier d"Art collection which are always the most expensive at retail as they feature work from all the tiny maison d'art houses. It was also Virginie Viard's first Metier d'Art Pre-fall collection. She titled the show 'Paris – 31 rue Cambon' which is of course where Gabriel Chanel first set up shop as a milliner in 1910. She later expanded her fashion empire by taking over six buildings to house her Haute Couture salons one of which was Number 31. In tribute she mirrored the black, beige, crystal and gold that evokes Chanel's apartment, and the famous mirrored staircase. When asked about it backstage, she said that the show was meant to be "the things we like, a mix of Karl and Chanel – the Chanel codes."
In this skirt we see the high workmanship of the luxury suppliers of the fashion industry. At first glance, you might almost think it to be a tweed Chanel piece but then as you look at it closer you realize that every inch is covered with overlapping silver sequins. The sequins are held in place by an ivory, gold and black thread and this is what gives them the appearance of that classic Chanel tweed. The sequins catch the light from every angle. It is exceptional. Running down the front is a panel of glittering crystals that are bordered with faux pearls on either side and the pearls are all caught into a black corded cage. That same detail runs down the centre of the skirt at the back. It is fitted around the waist, but without an added band so you lose no detail of that stunning design, and then it glides over the hips and flares out to the hem. The skirt has never been worn and has its original Chanel packet. Excellent condition
Fully lined in black silk and closes with a hidden set zipper under the back centre detailing. Tagged a 34 and has its original Chanel packet. Current Chanel fantasy skirts start at $5500 and range up to $8500USD + for pieces with this level of detailing.
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 23" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4545
Reference Photo/Video: Pre-Fall 2020 Chanel Runway, Look 37.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Pre-Fall 2018 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Grey Runway Look 13 Grey Pin Striped Pant & Jacket Pant Suit
I Have a Question
I have a small grouping of Chanel pieces that will be listing over the next week or so and they all come from an avid Couture and Chanel collector. Many of these pieces were extremely difficult to source when they were released and were only made in very limited quantities. They are in amazing condition and all but one have their original shop packet that has the extra fabric and style information. These are exceptional pieces for the collector and each is extremely special.
This is a suit pieced together from the actual Chanel sample jacket for this look and then the pants were purchased at retail by my client. It is incredibly rare to find a sample piece so that is a little extra special. The twin of the suit was worn for Look 13 for the Chanel Métiers d’Art show. The show was set in the Hamburg concert hall and that setting held an extra special place for Karl since it was his hometown. The concert hall had just been opened and for this show Karl mixed the modernity of the new space with his memories of Hamburg as a child “I’ve never left; this is part of me,” he reflected after the show. “I like Hamburg as an idea; something in the back of my mind.” Vogue noted 'You saw what that was, the essence of his inspiration, in a flash: Sailors in peaked caps on leave, girls in thigh-high boots and leather, the people who mill around docks and nightclubs. The clothes evoked ’60s beatniks, countercultural girls in sweaterdresses, smartly dressed officers in uniform, and naval ratings in sailor pants—looks that ran up and down the register of the cool, the hip, and the immaculately classic. It was an obvious, simple idea, really, but one marinated in a mind that has the sophistication to align the results with Coco Chanel’s heritage, and with what any girl would absolutely kill to wear right now.'
The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. Both pieces are made out of a pinstriped virgin wool that allows them to retain the exact lines that Lagerfeld intended while still staying light in weight. The jacket is cut so that it is fitted across the shoulders and then falls in a more box shape to the top of the hips. The collar is neat and small and I love how there is an inset of a white waffle weave cotton for a crisp little pop. That same little pop of cotton is set within each cuff so that it feels perfectly tied together. It buttons to close up one side and the buttons themselves are incredible. I took a detail shot so you can see that they are especially done with both Paris and Hamburg noted on them. The bottom hem is banded and there is a little top set pocket on one side. Each sleeve is long and straight and they end in a notched slit held by a button rather than a traditional cuff which falls in line with the sleek minimalist feel of the rest of the suit. Beside the little pop of white at the end there is also a little 'hidden' surprise of another functional pocket that sits at the end of the one sleeve nearest the pocket on the front. I am obsessed with this little detail. The pants are sleek and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted with a slanted slip pocket on each hip under the waist band. Two more pockets are at the back and each is still tacked shut. The legs fall wide to the ankle with just the tiniest bit of a flare at the ends. Each leg is finished with a precise wide cuff. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is lined in a deep grey silk embossed with the Chanel logo. A signature Chanel chain runs along the inner hem of the jacket. Every stitch is perfection. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The jacket is lined in a grey Chanel embossed silk and closes with the buttons along the front panel as seen. It has a Chanel sample label and is tagged a modern Chanel 38. A pocket on the front and on each cuff. Metal embossed buttons and the signature Chanel chain around the inner hem. There is slight yellowing and grubbiness on the inner collar of the Chanel. The pants zip to close at the front and have hidden hook & eye at the bands. Slip pockets on each hip and two tacked shut pockets at the back The pants have their original Chanel packet and are tagged a modern Chanel 40
Jacket
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to head
Pant
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 29" from inner seam to hem
Gusset: 17" from waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4540
Reference Photo/Video: Pre-Fall 2018 Chanel, Look 13.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Extraordinary Spring 2011 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Well Documented Floral Silk Dress & Leather Jacket Set
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This dress and jacket set is extremely well documented. Not only was it's twin presented on the Spring 2011 Chanel runway for Look 48 that season, but it was featured in the ad campaign that year and Anna Wintour herself wore the entire set and the dress alone on three different occasions. Lydia Hearst wore a shortened version and Sarah Chapmen wore the dress on its own. In Vogue's review of the show, Tim Blanks said in part; "Karl Lagerfeld gets a lot of his inspiration from dreams, but he didn't need any help from them today, because he already had Last Year at Marienbad, that hallucinatory slice of avant-garde celluloid from the early sixties, on his mind. Some would say that, despite its storied reputation, it's the most boring movie ever made, but for Lagerfeld—and Chanel—it inspired a breathtakingly surreal setting: a monochrome ornamental garden, complete with fountains, which mirrored one of the film's most famous scenes." Karla himself said that new fabrics were one of his touchstones for the collection, but "he distressed them with selvedge, ragged edges, and a lattice of perforations. That chaotic quality persisted in dégradé chiffon florals or a monochrome tweed patchwork.... It loaned an enthralling urgency, and the fierce young spirit in the collection could be read as a swingeing riposte to the cutesiness that sometimes overtakes Chanel's ready-to-wear."
Both the pieces are magical in a way that only Karl could create. I love that they are perfect together yet equally perfect when worn solo. It is always nice to have the option of more wears with a set that you can mix and match with existing pieces from your wardrobe. The dress is gorgeous and the richness and quality of the silk only really can be appreciated when you have it in hand. The top is cut to skim over you and the sleeveless design makes it easy to wear on its own or under the jacket. The bodice is pleated in these perfect pleats that are set vertically. Pleating the silk like that adds an extra dimension to that beautiful floral pattern that covers the silk. The waist nips in with a band of silk but still has that easy feel to it that Chanel pieces have. The skirt falls from the waist and the pleats open up from just under the hip so that when you move it lightly moves and floats around you. The dress is a masterclass in pleat work and an example of how finely done a pleat can be. Each pleat is exactly the same size as its neighbor and each lies perfectly as it runs over the dress from shoulder to hem.
The jacket goes over that and is made from a butter soft black leather. He used that same floral print silk to create an open cut lattice and then built the collar and front of the jacket out of that as well as the lower parts of the sleeves. He wrapped more of that silk lattice work all the way around the hem so that when worn together, you get this play on depth, colour and print from the floral of the dress underneath. The jacket is cut in a traditional blazer feel with a notched collar and long straight sleeves. It is meant to be a little loose through the body with the waist brought in just a touch for shape and does up at the front with large hooks. I love the zipped pockets on each hip with their little dangling double C zipper pulls.
This is a stunning and important set from that season. The dress still has its original tags. Excellent condition
The dress is lined through the bodice in a black silk chiffon and the skirt in unlined. It closes with a hidden set back zipper and a Chanel logo button at the back of the neck. It is tagged a Chanel 38 and has it original zip back with an extra square of silk. The jacket hooks to close at the front and lined in a. black logo embossed silk. It is tagged a Chanel 40
Jacket
Sleeves: 25" and 14" around the upper arm
Shoulders: "
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 26" from neck to hem
Dress
Bust: 16-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from top of shoulder to top of band at the waist
Skirt: 29.5" from top of 2" band at the waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4497
Reference Photos/Video: (1-2) Spring 2011 Chanel, Look 48, Model Lisanne De Jong. / (3) Spring 2011 Chanel Ad Campaign. Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld. / (4-5) Anna Wintour in Chanel at the 2011 Tribeca Film Festival. / (6) Anna Wintour, June 2011. / (7) Anna Wintour attending the Fall 2011 Chanel Fashion Show. / (8) Lydia Hearst attends CHANEL and Liz Goldwyn Celebrate "Chanel: Her Life" By Justine Picardie, September 2011. / (9) Sarah Chapman in Chanel, 2015.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Extraordinary Cruise 2006 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Silk Tulle Dress w Metallic Paillettes
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This is the twin of the dress that Anne Hathaway wore to the premiere of Brokeback Mountain in 2006. It is from the Cruise 2006 collection and it is extraordinary. For this show Karl Lagerfeld invited his guess to the Place de la Concorde. He had a fleet of green vintage buses adorned with Chanel logos and these transported his guests on a ride through Paris. Models paraded down the aisle among the passengers and at scheduled stops they would switch buses so that everyone saw the entire collection. Karl said at the time that he 'used to love riding the bus in Paris as a school boy' and that was the inspiration behind the idea of the show. Lagerfeld wanted the collection to be lighthearted and easy and to be a tribute to Paris. This is a stunning dress from that season and I love the tie in with Anne. It makes it that much more special.
First thing that will strike you about this dress is that it is almost shockingly light in weight. It is almost a surprise to see it with all of the embellishments on it and then pick it up and have it feel like you are holding a cloud of silk. The silk is so light and so fine that it feels like magic. It is a deep blue colour and the entire dress is made out of two layers of it with an inner silk chiffon layer to give it a touch of opacity. The dress falls from the shoulders with straps that curve up and around you. It is scooped at the front and back in a simple almost tank style. The bodice is meant to skim over you and there are built in round cups to help add a touch of coverage over the breasts. The top layer of tulle on the bodice is a separate piece that is tacked into place around the waist. The dress flows out below that and the skirt widens out as it reaches the hem. Around the lower part of the skirt there are built in panels of tulle set in triangles all the way around. This is a nod to the old Hollywood dresses of the 1930s and it's a stunning addition to the dress. They give the lower part of the dress tremendous movement and volume when you move. The palettes that cover the dress are the most striking part of the dress. They are done in soft muted pastels that range from gold to blue to pink. Each individual oversized sequin has a ombre affect on it. They are finished with a more muted metallic finish and are tremendously beautiful. These are overlapped to highlight around the neckline arms and around the waist and then they are scattered in rows down and over the bodice and skirt. They are denser around the hips and then are spread father apart as they reach the hem of the skirt. The panels that are inset into the skirt for volume are just the tulle alone so that you get this nice contrast when you move. The dress came with a matching shawl made of the same tulle. It's huge size lets you wear it almost like a cape over your shoulders. It is also so light and fine that you can wrap it around your neck, use it as a head scarf or as a turban. It is just phenomenal and I am very happy to also have a reference video of Anne in the dress so you can see how beautifully this moves. No matter how good it looks on her or on the dress form nothing will prepare you for the way it feels when you have it in hand. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a blue silk chiffon closes with a bat hidden sets zipper. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. The bias cut tulle does give it a bit of range. Tagged is Chanel 40
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem
Scarf: 68" x 74"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4385
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Spring 2006 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Haute Couture Pant Set w Detachable Collar & Sleeves
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This is an incredible example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. I am so glad this was a runway piece because it was almost impossible to photo correctly on the dress form. The elaborate sleeves that you see coming out from under the jacket are actually separate pieces altogether. You can see on the runway shots how beautifully they sit on an actual arm. My client opted for a more sleek jacket that did not take her in it at the waist as much as the runway look did and a more classic trouser. If you preferred that cinched in waist look you could easily belt the jacket. The simpler silhouette of this jacket allows for more versatility and styling. Sarah Mower said on her review of the show that; ‘It was pure Chanel, crystallized to a point of perfection only witnessed in haute couture…. Karl Lagerfeld began this mostly black-and-white collection with a new treatment of the Chanel suit…. These were paired with flat white go-go boots, which were not referenced from the sixties, but from a pair Coco (always ahead of her time) was wearing in a photograph from the decade before. That allusion and others demonstrate just how deftly Lagerfeld—Chanel historian par excellence—marshals his knowledge. He sprinkles the camellias, the satin bows, the organdy collars, and the bound edges so lightly that they become playful thrills—not belabored underscorings of theme or "brand identity."…. Lagerfeld reinvents the house signatures to pique the fantasies of today's young woman—and that he does just beautifully.’
The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. This is sharply contrasted with the dandified collar and arm pieces. It is incredible to have the full suit. This set includes the jacket, pants, inner top, collar and both arm pieces. The suit is made from a fine black wool that is light in weight and has a slight texture. It is just heavy enough to hold the shape beautifully. The jacket is cut to have a slight oversize feel through the body. The shoulders are shaped and the sleeves fall to just past the elbow. There is no collar. The neckline comes down the front in a simple V and then it zips to close down the remainder of the front. Two sleek little pockets are stacked on top of each other on either side of the waist for some detailing. It is cut to be more straight through the body and then flares out slightly at the hem, falling to just past the hip. The pants are classic and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp fold runs down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is entirely made by hand. Every stitch is perfection. Under that goes a little sleeveless ivory silk top with a small neat collar. The top is easy fitting through the body. The top three buttons are finished with rhinestones and enamel and then the rest of the buttons are hidden under a flap of silk. Three additional pieces come with the suit. The first is a detachable silk organdy collar that goes around the neck and adds a romantic flounce with a large soft bow and ties. This gives the suit an unexpected touch of drama. Next is a pair of detachable sleeves. The sleeves are also made out of the same silk organdy as the collar and slip on the lower arm. Both those and the collar have a nod to the regency era when this type of sleeve and collar were all the rage. The sleeves are finished with a row of those beautiful buttons and the ends are ruffled. Every piece has been entirely made by hand and all the proper Chanel couture labels and numbered tapes are present. I love that with this one set you have so many pieces to mix and match with other things you own. It allows you to be able to sprinkle a bit of vintage Haute Couture throughout your wardrobe. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The jacket and pants are hand lined in a fine black silk. The jacket closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pockets appear to be functional and all four still have their original tacking in place. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. The toppings to close at the front. The collar snaps into place and the sleeves slip onto the arm with functional buttons running down the cuffs. The edges of the collar and cuffs have intentional raw edges. I see one small area of breakage in the silk on the edge of one cuff. Please see the photo after all of the label shots. I see one rhinestone missing off one button on each cuff and one on the top. All of the pieces are made and finished by hand to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape are present on all pieces but the sleeves. Sourced from the original couture client
Jacket
Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34.5" from neck to head
Pant
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from waist to hem with 1.5" turned under
Inseam: 28.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 15.5" from back waist to inner seam
Top
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to head
Collar
14" around and the snaps could be adjusted up or down a bit if needed
Cuffs
Length: 13" including the extended cuff, 9" without
10" around the upper edge and narrows to 7" around the wrist
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4263
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 9. Model: Svetlana.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
SEE MORE FROM THE 1990S
yves saint laurent
Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Ad Campaign Black Dress w Green & Red Enamel Heart Buttons
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The twin of this dress was used for the 1992 ad campaign that was shot by Helmut Newton on Karen Mulder. We also found the runway shots of the dress in purple worn by a young 19 year old Tyra Banks and in the video here you can see that the twin of this black one followed right behind it. We have had the purple version in the shop before and that dress had its original hang tag on it so we know that this dress originally retailed for $1990, the equivalent of about $4400 USD in current dollars. This was one of the iconic pieces of that season and I am very pleased to have found it in the black version.
The dress is made from a crisp cotton and silk mix that has just enough weight to it so that it sits perfectly once on the body. It skims over your curves in a chic and simple line. The dress perfectly represents this time period and you can see the transition from the stronger more angular shape of the eighties and how it was slowly moving into simpler shapes for the 1990s, all while still retaining the emphasis on the shoulders that the eighties had. That touch of excess from the 1980s is still there, but the shape is softening. The neckline is scooped and just deep enough to feel sexy but without being too deep not to be able to easily wear. It has a row of buttons under that that run to past the waist and this is held closed with those incredible poured glass enamel buttons. There are six in total, three red and three green and I love the heart shape they are done in. It is cut to skim over the bust, waist and hips. The skirt widens out just a touch as it nears the hem. That ruffled shoulder and neckline detail is the star of the show. It follows the cut of the neckline and puffs out above the shoulders for a bit of high drama. I love that we have so many reference photos so that you can see just how amazing this dress is on the body. It appears to have been worn very little, if at all. Excellent condition
Unlined and closes down the front with the buttons as seen. Tagged a vintage YSL 40
Waist: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4409
Reference Photos/Video: (1) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Ad Campaign. / (2-6) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Runway. Model: Tyra Banks.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Softest Fall 1994 Christian Lacroix Runway Knit Printed Striped Slouchy Cardigan w Original Belt
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Christian LaCroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and was an instant success on the worldwide stage. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections are always exotic, lavish affairs and his designs seemed to span the decades with their eccentric glamour pulled from multiple sources of inspiration. The twin of this cardigan was shown on the fall 1994 runway and you can see how fantastic it is on the body. It's that perfect piece that walks the line between being easy and comfy and still glamorous.
This is a beautiful example of Christian's ready-to-wear work and it is made to be slightly oversized and easy to wear with an almost lounging robe feel to it in its cut. It is a piece that you can wear open and layered over other things or wrap and use the belt that comes with it or one of your own to have to feel more like a coat or to even be able to wear it on its own. It is made out of a mixed knit that is insanely soft to the touch and feels soft on the body so that it has the easy organic lines that you see. Everything about it is meant to convey ease and luxury. It has no closures and just slips on. The shoulders slope down and into those fabulously long ribbed cuffed sleeves. You can push the sleeves up, wear them long or roll them. The body of the cardigan is loose and generously cut. Pockets sit low on each hip and the collar has a wide shawl feel to it. The entire bottom is one in a ribbon to pick up the cuffs. It is gorgeous and once on, you won't want to take it off. Excellent condition.
Unlined with no closures but does come with its original twist tie belt. Tagged a size M but the loose and easy for will work on a large range of sizes. The smaller you are the more it will feel oversized.
Sleeves: 22" from he dropped shoulders
Dropped shoulders: 26"
Bust- hips: 29" flat across from side to side and narrows to about 23"at the ribbing
Length: 32" from neck to hem and hangs a bit longer once on the body
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG
Item# DD4524
Reference Photo: Fall 1995 Christian Lacroix Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spectacular Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 47 Runway Dot & Embroidered Floral Pouf Dress
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This is a very rare dress that is the twin of the dress that walked the Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1992 Haute Couture runway. It is extremely well documented and I have included photos of the original sketch and swatches that I have here from the Saint Laurent couture archive book set that I own in addition to runway reference photos of it that we found. You can see just how fantastic it is on the body. This was Look 47 and part of the short evening segment of the collection.
This collection marked Yves' 30 year anniversary and it was presented on January 29 to coincide exactly with his first collection presented January 29, 1962. The book, Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk, notes that at the time people were expecting a retrospective but Yves actually surprised everyone by producing a full 91 piece collection. There was a definitive tribute aspect to his first 1962 collection. Flowers were a main motif and ran throughout the collection as did polka dots and stripes. Puff sleeve tops with balloons skirts were integral and dresses like this one were a key look. It is an exceptional to have such beautiful documentation on this stunning dress. Every piece of Saint Laurent Couture is a treasure but when it's as highly documented in from such an important collection as this, it is just that much more special.
The dress is exquisite. It is made from a combination of a white silk that has been hand embroidered with roses and leaves across the entire bodice. This is then combined with a silk faille skirt that has dots that appear to be hand painted onto the fabric. A silk organza bow is wrapped around the waist and I love the deeper mustard yellow tone of it. It perfectly offsets the black and white palette. The neckline is scooped across the front and the bodice is meant to skim over the body to the waist. The sleeves are fantastic and each insets into the bodice in a series of pleats across the top of the shoulders. This is what gives them the volume that you see. The edges of the neckline are finished with a black cord and this runs around the cuffs as well. Each cuff is brought into the arm with a button and loop and this bringing in at the arm also helps to exaggerate the puff above. The entire silk of the top is embroidered in this magical, dreamy, black rose embroidery that pops against the white of the silk. The embroidery is done onto the silk directly in some places and then in other places the leaves or roses have been cut out and hand stitched in place. The waist is seamed but it is more generously cut and the organza ribbon that circles it adds the perfect pop of color. Under that the skirt is fantastically full and the fulness is created by the pleats that are set into the waist and the way it has been wrapped in and under at the hem to attach to the skirt underneath. Between the those two layers of the skirt you can feel that there is tulle and some structure inside that helps hold that exaggerated shape. It is a fantastic magical piece of Haute Couture and an important piece from an important collection. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice is lined in an ivory silk and the sleeves are unlined. The belt at the waist is attached and wrapped and hooked into place. The skirt is lined in the same fabric as the outer skirt and there is stiffening between the layers as described above. It closes at the back with a button at the top of the neck and then there is a hidden set side zipper too close. The dress is unlabeled, but I have seen the original label that came with the dress. The dress had been let out at some point and my client had it brought back in and unfortunately when she had it altered back to its original size, the tailor lost the tag. I see some very minor evidence of that alteration on the bodice. There are some areas of stress near the embroidery and some minor reinforcements underneath the arms. I see slight dustiness on the fabric at the top the shoulders and there is a tiny chip on the button on one sleeve. Perhaps a slight grubbiness along the inner edge of the lining under the arm. The outside presents as clean and fresh and once on it looks immaculate.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 18" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4509
Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (4-6) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002".
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
romeo gigli
Important 1990 Romeo Gigli One Off Haute Coutre Full Wedding Dress Set w Flower Filled Chiffon Coat & Accessories
I Have a Question
Every so often I am contacted by someone and entrusted with something very special and this wedding set by Romeo Gigli absolutely fits that bill. This incredible set is a one of a kind, Haute Couture made to measure piece that comes directly from its original owner and she has graciously given all of the original documentation on it to share with you along with a full write up on her experience with Romeo and a scan of the Elle article that was written a year after her wedding.
Romeo Gigli launched his label first in 1981 which failed. In 1983 he partnered with Carla Sozzani and in 1985 he presented a 25 piece collection in Milan. By 1986 he was an international sensation and his collections made world wide headlines. In 1989 he had his Paris debut. His work was romantic but dramatic. Hallmarks included shawl coats, which this set so perfectly displays, along with soft sloping shoulders and silhouettes that narrow as they come down the body. Historical references run through his work and his de-structured lines felt fresh and new.
This set has all of the original pieces that Marion wore on her wedding day and even includes the original boxes and silk bags that the set was delivered in. Every piece was made in studio by hand and when I tell you that my photos do not do the full set justice I have never been more honest as everything is more beautiful in person. This is a once in a life time opportunity to own this incredible and important piece of fashion history. The link to Marion's story is below and a short description of the pieces follows.
The wedding ensemble consists of a pale pink silk chiffon top, a gold lace hobble skirt and a deep gold silk jacket or top that was worn over those two pieces. An incredible silk chiffon coat that is filled with silk flowers and flows behind you in a knotted train was worn over that. The original pale taupe velvet shoes in their original box are present along with the hand made hair sticks and pins. The two original pink raw silk hand made bags that the skirt and tops were delivered in are included and the entire ensemble comes in its original raw silk covered box. The final piece included is the little hand held green silk bag that Marion carried that day.
The skirt and inner top are the base of the outfit. The top is slightly cropped and made from a pale dusty peach pink silk chiffon. The chiffon has been hand gathered into soft pleats and crosses itself over the front and back. It wraps around you and closes on one side, inside, with a series of silk covered buttons and then the other side wraps over that and closes at the back outside with buttons as well. The skirt is made out of fine gold lace and is banded around the waist for shape. It drapes softly over the body with volume through the hips created by the layers. It narrows down at the ankles for a touch of a hobble skirt in appearance with the ends curving up and under. It is an incredible design.
An oversized silk top goes over this that has a bit of volume through the body. It is made from a deep copper gold silk with a burnished finish. The sleeves are incredibly long and are meant to be gather along the arms and follow the cut and curve of them. The collar is very high and wired so that it stands and frames the face beautifully. One side is longer then the other and you can shape the wire to give it a quirky little curve in the direction and way that works best for you. I love the open cut out just under the collar. It hints at the silk chiffon top underneath and adds an unexpected flash of skin.
The coat is utterly remarkable. It is thoroughly Romeo Gigli in spirit and it is one of the most beautiful, magical things I have ever seen. It has those beautiful sloped shoulders he was known for and the front flips over into a deep shawl collar. It slips on over everything else with no front closures. It just falls over you in this exceptional drape of chiffon and flowers and then trails out behind you. The end has been knotted and I love this detail as it is absolutely Gigli at his best. The coat is made from a silk chiffon outer and inner layer that has a touch of transparency to it while inside and between the layers are thousands of silk flowers. Each would have been placed by hand one by one to form a solid layer of flowers that shows through the silk. It has weight yet it feels weightless. It has presence yet it feels ethereal. The top layer of the chiffon is a pale dusty pink and then the inner layer is a pale taupe. The flowers float between the two and it make this light rustling sound as it moves that it magical. It is one of the best things I have ever personally seen.
Finally are the accessories. Her original velvet shoes that slide on and then tie in place, the little green silk bag that is held by the tied straps and the various hand made hair and stick pins in their original box.
The entire set will be sent in it original box hand covered in a deep dusty pink raw silk as it came to Marion from the Gigli ateliers.
Everything is in superb condition. I see a teeny smudge of discoloration under the arms of the inner silk chiffon top and the wear to the soles of the shoes giving away the clue that it was worn that day. The silk on the large box it came in has more wear as seen in the photos
This is a once in a life time, absolutely remarkable piece of fashion history.
Inner top
Shoulders: no true seams
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from waist to hem and including the 4" waist band
Outer top
Sleeves: 39" from the dropped shoulder seam and are around 11" arond after the dropped shoulder
Shoulders: 27" across and meant to drop significantly
Bust: 30" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 27" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam by the hem
Length: 41" from neck hem
Neck: 13" around
Coat
Is about 36" flat across the inner bust and it is about 120" long from the neck to end past the knot and not including the deep shawl collar. It is pretty much OSFA
Bag
Approx 9.5" tall and about 5-7" in diameter
Shoes
Approx a 40-41
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED for the inner outfit and the coat is OSFA
Item# DD4458
Reference Photos: Courtesy of Marion Hume. (1-2) Fitting with Romeo Gigli. / (3-7) On the wedding day.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
thierry mugler
Fall 1999 Thierry Mugler 'Vie en Rose' Collection' Black Dress w High Slit & Vivid Pink Lining
I Have a Question
The twin of this dress with a blue lining walked the Fall 1999 runway along with an all pink dress that also has the exact same cut. I have included both of these for you so that you can see how beautiful the dress is on and moving. I think that shock of pink is even better then the blue actually. I reached out to Ashley Scott, one of the leading Mugler collectors, who helped me source these runway looks and date the dress She expressed her delight on how rare this dress would be. The dress is stunning on the body and I am very happy to have video reference so you can see just how beautifully it moves.
The shock of seeing that vivid pink against the black when you walk is fantastic to see. The dress is cut with Mugler's masterful eye and attention to detail. It is suspended from tiny straps that curve over the shoulders. All the seaming on the dress is set vertically so that it enhances and highlights the curves of the body. The bust is shaped through the seaming to follow your curves. The neckline is scooped and the waist nips in and it is created by the shaping of those beautifully curved seems. It skims over the hips and then falls to the floor with a slight widening out as it near the hem. Depending on your height the dress will be full length or to about the ankle so that you see your shoes peek out from under the hem. On one side of the bodice the strap leads into a seam that is backed by that vivid pink silk. Where it meets the scoop of the neckline there's a little peak that is formed. I love that little detail. It is so Mugler. That seam has a bit of a stiffening to it so it holds its curve perfectly once on the body. It curves under and around the breast on the one side, then goes across the waist and down and over the other hip at the front. From there it splits into a dramatic high slit that allows your leg to show when you walk just like you see in the videos. The inside of the dress is lined in a vivid bright pink silk satin and as you walk your legs kick the skirt open and you see that flash of pink. It is an extraordinary dress. Rare and exceedingly beautiful. Excellent condition with one minor note below
The bodice is lined in a black silk and the skirt and behind that front curved seam is lined in the vivid pink as described above. There is a bit of a watermark on the inside hem at one corner. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a Mugler vintage 36.
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 53" from top of shoulder to hem
Slit: 27" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD4462
Reference Photos/Video: Fall 1999 Thierry Mugler Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.