Halston used this sequin technique predominantly between about 1973 to 1978. Instead of layering and overlapping the sequins, they were laid out flat, side by side, to cover every inch of the fabric. The Fall 1976 collection featured this asymmetrical neckline heavily and I have included reference photos of jersey versions of the dress from both The Met and the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. In December of 1976 the New York Times wrote that: 'This season there are three things that the ladies must wear: Adolfo's taffeta skirt, Halston's asymmetrical neckline and Mollie Parnis's tunic and satin pants.... Babe bought the first asymmetrical neckline dress and Jackie bought the second. If you do not know their last names you do not know the ladies.' This is a stunning and rare version that is full sequinned and could not be more of an impact once it is on.

The dress is made from a black stretch jersey for the inner layer, which also acts as the lining, and then the outer layer is made out of the same fabric but in a lighter, thinner weight than the inner layer. That outer layer is what the sequins are attached to. The sequins have all been placed and attached by hand and completely cover the dress from shoulder to hem. The sequins are a deep gunmetal grey/black and depending on the light they can reflect back as a true black, a deep grey, a lighter grey or even have a touch of a blue grey tone to them. This makes the dress absolutely incredible to see in person. The technique used of placing the sequins flat and side by side also allow the light reflecting off the sequins make it seem like you have been poured into a liquid metal. The sleeves end just about the elbow and the bust is cut to mold to your curves. It skims over the waist, hugs the hips and then flares out slightly as it reaches it's supermodel length hem. That signature neckline dips deeply to one side to expose the upper chest and this is mirrored at the back. It is amazingly comfortable to wear because of the stretch of the jersey. Excellent condition with a note below.

It closes with a hidden set, side zipper and the fabric has stretch. Fully lined in a black stretch jersey as described above. Hand set sequins and wide ribbon, hand set inner hem. There is the occasional sequin missing but there are sequins in the inner seams that could be used if this bothered you. It is so densely covered that its somewhat irrelevant. Some of the sequins show a little patina on their finish. The one shoulder above the dipped side felt slightly stretch on me, though I think that on a taller girl it would be fine. It would be an easy adjustment if needed at all. The stretch of the fabric should allow it to fit a range of sizes and the measurements below are the comfortable range when lying flat.

Sleeves: 14"
Shoulders: no defined seams
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from shoulder to hem

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG

Item# DD3243

Reference Photos: (1) 1976 Halston Evening Dress from The MET Online Collection.  /  (2) 1977 Halston Dress from the Museum of Fine Arts Boston Collection.  /  (3-5) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.

Voguepedia says of Gilbert Adrian: "In the hands of the legendary Hollywood designer Gilbert Adrian, clothes could do and say magical things. From the flower-festooned munchkin costumes in The Wizard of Oz to the elegance-defining “Gowns by Adrian” worn by screen stars like Norma Shearer, Barbara Stanwyck, and Joan Crawford—and copied by the hundreds of thousands for the humbler masses—Adrian was the definition of cinematic invention for more than a decade.....Adrian’s signature custom-retail label, founded in 1942, was wildly popular. His gowns bore distinctive names like “Dinner with a Dash of Gold” and “Shades of Picasso,” and he catered to an elite set of style mavens in Hollywood."

After some extensive research I believe this gown is from from Gilbert Adrian's 1945 collection. It was sold to my client and dated as being from a few seasons later, but I feel that the advertisement that I found is too much of a coincidence with its similar feeling pattern worked through the design. The gown is absolutely outstanding and in a world where Adrian Gilbert pieces are already rare, this particular gown is even more special, even if you simply based it on how utterly beautiful it is. It is made of a stunning black silk that has a metallic lame thread woven through it to create the design work that you see. The metallic parts are done in a gold  mixed with a bright, true green and a deeper olive. The addition of the metal thread gives the entire ensemble a subtle glow. The fabric has a good weight to it that helps it to hold the shape and also adds to it rich and luxurious feel. This is fabric that you would simply not be able to even have made anymore. The Grecian inspired pattern is woven through the entire fabric. The addition of this metallic thread highlights the design that runs all the way around the skirt and the top. The top is a simple halter bodice with straps that curve up and around the shoulders. It curves in towards the waist through vertical seaming and is cut to end exactly on top of where the skirt flares out. Once on it gives the illusion of a true gown. The top is entirely finished with the metallic thread, allowing us to see the full beauty of it. The skirt sits under this and the upper portion of the waist is fitted and set high so that it creates no break or lines when it is worn under the top. From under that, a magnificent ball gown skirt cascades to the floor in a sweep of silk. The construction of this is wonderful and it is gathered all the way around the dropped hip seam and set into that seam with a series of tiny, perfectly spaced knife pleats that open up to the fullness you see. I styled this over a light, full length crinoline to really give it the proper shape it would have had been meant to be worn as when it was made. The shape that this creates is amazing. The dress is entirely hand made to Haute Couture standards. This is a rare opportunity to own an original Gilbert Adrian that is not only in wonderful condition but is also heart breakingly beautiful and still to this day, feels modern and wearable. Excellent condition.

Both piece are unlined with hand finished inner seams and the inner construction is done to Couture standards. The skirt closes with a painted metal zipper and hook & eye on the inner waist band. The top closes with a back painted metal zipper. The skirt was photoed over a full length crinoline that is not included. I have included detail photos of both the fabric and the inner hand done seams. The top looks like it has been out along the side seams from the waist up on both sides and one seam on the fitted part of the inner top skirt was also opened at some point. The work is well done and it could easily be made smaller again if needed.

Top
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 25" from shoulder to hem

Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips at lower seam of skirt: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 44" from waist to hem with a 3.5" hem turned up

Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED

Item# DD3242

Reference Photo: Gown by Gilbert Adrian, available at the William H. Block Co., Indianapolis, 1945.

This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.