c1965 Nina Ricci Haute Couture Sheepskin Lined Ivory Silk Coat
The Nina Ricci Haute Couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines in Paris and became one of the pre-eminent couture ateliers in the world. IIn 1954, Jules-François Crahay, Madame Ricci’s design assistant, succeeded her as Artistic Director. The house’s style became structured; the signature curves of its silhouette elongated. Designer Gérard Pipart succeeded Jules-François Crahay in 1964. Throughout the following three decades, his Haute Couture vision celebrated a flamboyant woman and his ready-to-wear found a loyal following among the most stylish women of the day.
This coat came out of an estate of an extremely wealthy woman who was a regular couture client during the 1960s. For the 1965 collection Gérard Pipart debuted the side button closure that featured large button closures off to one side, a cloth version of which was photoed on Jean Shrimpton for Harper's Bazaar that year. I also found a reference photo for a similar all fur version. This version is a wonderful combination of the two. The exterior is a quilted silk in an ivory color and the fabric is especially beautiful. That 3D puff effect is not created by the stitching around the patterns that you normally see but by different weights of thread woven into the fabric to create the design. Inside it is lined a a thick sheepskin that makes it warm and cozy. The design of the coat itself is simple with structured lines. The front wraps over itself and buttons with that one large silk covered button near the arm. The edges are detailed with a thick padded piping that runs along the front, around the hem and circles the end of each sleeve. Pockets lie along the seam on each side. It is immaculate in its construction and an absolutely stunning coat. A beautiful example of how refined true Haute Couture can be. Excellent condition with one note to review below.
The entire coat is lined in sheepskin. It closes with the button at the front and there is a button and loop to hold it perfectly in pace on the interior as well. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. I see no flaws and it appears to have been worn very little. Pockets along the seam. I see a small amount of fraying to the fabric around the back collar but it is stable and does not deter.
Bust: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam and gently widens out
Length: 38" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Reference photos: Jean Shrimpton in Nina Ricci for Harper's Bazaar 1965, Avedon; Brigitte Bauer in Nina Ricci for Vogue 1965, William Klien. Historical info on the house verbatim from the Nina Ricci website.
I have a small collection of historically important, key designer labelled vintage furs, fur trimmed & feather pieces stored away in my archives that I will be slowly posting on the site over the next couple of years until I have none left. I will no longer be buying furs for the shop moving forward and have not purchased anything for several years now. I feel like times have changed and while there still is a place for vintage furs for some, including collectors and historians, many modern girls are choosing other options. Many of the pieces in my collection are representative of the designer during a set time period in history that was different then our modern outlook. I have decided that the best course to handle this controversial issue is to let the pieces I have go rather then sit in a cold storage unit. All fur coats, fur trimmed & feather pieces are final sale
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.