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The Taste for Splendor

Posted by Laura
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Sinuous black crepe pajamas—a discreetly mandarin shape—flashing beams of pink, green and yellow fluorescence from slut neckline and cuffs to catch the eye of night. By Oscar de la Renta. Earrings by Jules Van Rouge. Ring by Maurice Jacobs.

 

 

The luxe sparkling glamour of some of the Autumn/Winter 2017 collections is perfectly in keeping with fashion's continuous plundering of the past. The heavily sequinned and feathered ensembles featured in this 1967 editorial have quite an Orientalist influence—from the Arabian necklines of the Oscar de la Renta jumpsuit and George Halley caftan and the kimono sleeves of the Sarmi pajamas—that has been then been pushed to an extravagant extreme similar to the extremes taken by designers today like Alessandro Michele for Gucci. Halley and Sarmi were described by WWD in 1967 as "the pretty girl designers" (alongside Bill Blass and Stavropoulos), yet here their designs seem more fit for a jet-set star rather than merely a pretty girl—couldn't you see Talitha Getty in that amazing powder blue George Halley velvet caftan? The opulence of silk velvet, elaborate embroidery and shining coq feathers help these designs transcend from normal eveningwear to something more sensational, more at the level of today's couture (only one of these designers was then designing at the couture level, Halley).

 

Editorial by Neal Barr for Harper's Bazaar, October 1967. 

 

 

Black velvet jumper-pajamas—long, kimono-sleeved top spiced with the air of Tartary—swimming in waves of silver Oriental flowers, a shining contrast to darkness. By Sarmi. Atelier Nina earrings. Jane Bolles ring.

 

 

Deep powder-blue crushed velvet caftan—traced with silver flowers and richly braided—opulent enough for the pitched tents of ancient Araby, superb for an intimate evening here and now. By George Halley. Jewelry by Jules Van Rouge. Herbert Levine mules.

 

 

Purple silk dirndl—sumptuously full and widely belted, swelling from a narrow bodice rustling with red goose feathers—for a brilliant clash of colors in the heart of night. By Burke-Amey. Maurice Jacobs earrings and ring.

 

 

A taste for black—splendid drama in heaviest silk. A bodice that cleaves to the body; a bat-wing breadth of skirt scooped into pajama legs in front. By John Moore. Jewelry by Maurice Jacobs. Shining satin and diamante shoes by Delman.

 

 

Black bird of paradise—a sleek, canary-that-ate-the-cat smoothing of coq feathers, guaranteed unruffleable. At the throat, a little burst of feathers; cinching the waist, a black satin bow. Dress by Donald Brooks. Castlecliff earrings. Hattie Carnegie ring.

 

 

We had the George Halley Caftan, that was featured in this editorial, in the shop! (It is long gone to it's new home now but if you'd like to see the listing you can do that here.)

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