How to put a girl in men’s clothing? Via a waist-cropped jacket that’s sleeved and backed with white Orlon knit ($32). And pleated trousers ($28; both wool/nylon Donegal tweed) zipped over a plaid cotton shirt ($18). All Willi Smith for Digits. The overcoat-y newsboy cap is from the Fulton Supply Co. Tie by Rooster.
The incoming crisp air of September brings with it immediate memories of "back to school" shopping trips and new wardrobes. Every August and September we would religiously hit the stores with our mothers, choosing our clothes with the gravitas of someone who knew that their classmates' perceptions of them rested on these decisions. This annual tumult lasted through grade, middle and high school, reaching its peak with freshman year of college—clothes really do make the first impression. Every August Mademoiselle magazine had a "College" issue guest-edited by carefully selected college students from around America (both Sylvia Plath and Betsey Johnson were guest editors). Among the very earnest articles on college life were Mademoiselle's selections of the finest fall fashions—the clothes guaranteed to make you a campus star. In 1972, they looked to menswear as the defining style of the moment—a pre-Annie Hall sojourn through plaids and tattersalls and ties, all carefully shrunk down to lady proportions. The ensembles are appealing, especially so when worn by silky haired co-eds (including Alva Chinn, who went on to become a supermodel in the 1980s and a favorite of Halston) around the campus of Bucknell University in Pennsylvania.
Even if you are long past graduation it is still fun to update your wardrobe with the changing seasons—what are you planning to pick up for the coming fall? I'm personally rather enamored with the Betsey Johnson for Alley Cat pastel cardigan, vest and shirt in the second photograph.
Editorial by Elisabeth Novick for Mademoiselle, August 1972.
Nubby tweeds. Tailored shirts. Knitted ties. On a man they’re sensible. But on a girl—sensational.
The mixers—a Fair Isle cardigan ($24) plus a matching vest ($20; both wool knitted in America) plus a check-printed cotton shirt ($22) plus tweed wideleg pants ($35; wool loomed in America). All Alley Cat by Betsey Johnson. Brown leather belt from Elegant.
The sort of swell stuff men wear—cut down to girl’s sizes. On Karen, a spiffy little camel-sleeved sweater jacket fronted with tattersalling ($26) that matches front-pleated, cuff-bottomed trousers ($30; both of wool loomed and knitted in America). Just showing, a shirt of another cotton plaid ($22). All by Carol Horn for Benson & Partners. Fair Isle vest from the San Francisco New World Clothing Trust. The brown leather belt by Garay.
All swash and no buckle, a wrap-and-tie coat of yummy camel wool melton ($155) over a green/camel squiggled cardigan (acrylic/alpaca wool knit, $36) and smashing straight-legged wool flannel trousers ($40). The shirt, a neat cotton flannel foulard ($30). All, Daniel Hechter. Leather/knit gloves, Hansen.
Left, a red and white cotton tattersall shirt ($12) and gray wool knit vest ($10) bottomed with gray flannel pants (of Burlington wool loomed in America $20). All, Meredith Gladstone for Crazy Horse. Right, a beige and gray X-tracked Orlon knit pull (Jane Irwill, $20) over pinstriped charcoal flannel pants (Jeanne Campbell for Sportswhirl of wool loomed in America, $30). Argyle knit ties, Polo by Ralph Lauren. His men’s wear—shirt, Brooks Brothers; sweater, Puritan.
The way it works—you take a classic tattersalled shirt (polyester/cotton, $9), add a V-necked button-front vest (acrylic, $8; both Ship ‘n’ Shore), tie it all together with a pale plaided taffeta ascot (from Echo).
Nifty sweater set in a great F. Scott Fitzgerald glen plaid. But pale. One’s a short V-necked cardigan ($15), the other a vesty pullover ($11) and both are from Bananas by Nancy Bossio of lush mohair/wool knit. Plaid shirt, Lady Manhattan. Plaid brimmer from Madcaps.
The pattern pileup, a natural/maroon Fair Isle vest (wool/mohair knit, $20), piled up on a pale beige-on-beige plaid skirt ($16) and maroon/beige/pink/blue glen plaid pleated and cuff-bottomed pants (wool-blend, $24). All, by Margaret Godfrey for Bagatelle.
Haberdashing in the grand manner—in a snappy glen plaid blazer-and-pants suit (navy and brown wool, $155), a green and camel foulard-printed manshirt (cotton flannel, $30), a tobacco cardigan (angora blend, $30); all Daniel Hechter, and a jaunty ascot (Sally Gee). His shirt is by Brooks Bros; the sweater from Jantzen.
Left, the vest interest’s a pink Fair Isle-striped sweater ($12) topped with its cardigan match up ($18; both of Shetland wool, knitted in America). They’re both piled over a claret cotton shirt ($15) and a flippy, gray wool flannel skirt (loomed in America, $20). All by Pat Ashley for John Meyer. Roman Stripe socks. Right, the layers here – a pale blue vest ($12) and cardigan ($18, both Beldoch popper, of wool Shetland) tugged over a tweedy brown box-pleated skirt (by Franck Olivier, of wool Donegal, $40) and a Tattersall checked shirt (Mike Weber). The ribby knee socks are by Bonnie Doon.
Getting all the haberdashery off on the right foot—stout-heeled leather oxfords laced up via four eyelets. Sebago ($17). The haberdashery—a solid-sleeved plaid varsity jacket ($26) and vest ($20, of maroon, white, green and gold wool/mohair knit) over natural cotton denim pants ($20). All by Pinky and Dianne for Flo Toronto.
The sure footing here, top pic left, a tassled brown leather moc supported by a chunky stacked heel. By G.H. Bass, $20. Center: An antique-brown leather platform-soled loafer top-deck’d with leather loops and bits of shiny brass. Dunham’s. Right: The five-eyelet oxford stacked with a sturdy sole and heel. Famolare, of dark brown leather, $35. Middle pic: A triple-banded loafer jacked up by a chunk of heel. Connie, of brown leather, $17. Socks, Bonnie Doon. Bottom pic; The left shoe’s the same one you saw opposite. The right’s a loafer stack-heeled pump slapped with leather strapping. Nina, of brown leather, $28. Roman Stripe socks.