Versace Atelier. Dress with bodice etched on black double caddy silk. Gloves, Isabel Canovas. Rings and bracelets, Jean-Xavier Duhart. Heels, Charles Kammer.
Every vintage collector has a list of "holy grail" items they would kill to someday find (at a price they can afford). Among mine are the strappy bondage dresses from Versace Haute Couture Spring 1992—as seen on Karen Mulder in the first image from this Vogue Paris editorial (she wore the same dress on the runway). Other than looking so smoking hot that it makes me want to dye my hair dark, Karen is the perfect foil for a host of black cocktail looks. Styled with long opera gloves and large costume jewellery, the dresses are all meant to reflect a "chorus of modernity: up tempo black outfits, classics well tempered to the beat of today." While overall the designs are more historically inspired than strictly "modern" (see for example the Christian Lacroix Couture off-the-shoulder dress reminiscent of ballgowns past and the 60s style sheath by Lecoanet-Hemant), the modernity comes from the lightness that these clothes are worn and the complete styling—even with gloves and faux pearls, the total look is never precious and instead support the "very loud" premise of the title.
Karen Mulder photographed by Max Vadukul for Vogue Paris, March 1992.
Givenchy. Ziberline black cocktail dress. Black satin gloves, Isabel Canovas. Earrings in black jet, Callaghan.
Lanvin by Claude Montana. Dress in black ziberline, has ruffled asymmetrical skirt of black tulle, created by Claude Montana. Rhinestone cuffs, Lanvin for Claude Montana. Pumps, Sidonie Larizzi. Tights, Lanvin.
Chanel. Dress in black linen, with a wide satin band. Hat of horsehair and muslin, realized by the house Michael and Philip Treacy. Faux pearl necklaces and bracelets, rhinestones earrings. Pumps with suede laces. All Chanel. Isabel Canovas gloves.
Guy Laroche. Evening dress of navy faille, and has wide armholes "Americaines" and sharp white collar, created by Angelo Tarlazzi. Black satin gloves, Isabel Canovas. Earrings and rhinestone necklace, Scooter.
Lecoanet-Hemant. Toggle dress of black organza gazar, bordered with white organza. Isabel Canovas gloves. Rhinestone bracelets and earrings, Scooter. Satin sandals, Walter Steiger. Gerbe tights.
Christian Lacroix Haute Couture. Apron dress in black gauze, trimmed with white lace and black pleated tulle. Assorted removable cuffs. Ball hat of black ostrich feathers.
Lapidus. Tuxedo jacket, with tails of black silk ziberline and jewelled buttons, created by Olivier Lapidus. Rhinestone necklace and earrings Scooter. Satin laced sandals, Sidonie Larizzi. Opaque tights, Wolford.
Jean-Louis Scherrer. Taffeta dress with white dots, trimmed with lace. Gloves, Ganteb's. Rhinestone necklace, Scooter. Tights, Le Bourget. Pumps, Sidonie Larizzi.
Louis Feraud. Long dress in black chiffon charmeuse, with a silver jewel bodice. Earrings match the dress.