Moschino S/S 2015.
Next year will mark 20 years of punchy, colourful and witty designs from Jeremy Scott and to honour the occasion, the Missouri born designer is getting his own retrospective at the Dallas Contemporary Museum. Scott’s clever plays on pop-culture and his brilliant partnerships over the years from celebrity friends like Katy Perry and Miley Cyrus to his 2008 Addidas collab and his appointment at Moschino firmly carve out his niche in the fashion landscape. Yet it’s his legacy prior to the success, the story of an artist who always knew his voice and strived through the rejection of the early years to find his audience that is so inspiring. In many ways he is the ultimate designer to champion the house of Moschino, as Vlad Yudin’s 2015 aptly titled documentary states, Scott is The People’s Designer.
While Scott was only appointed to Moschino in 2013, Scott’s penchant for stylishly parodying pop-culture and nostalgia is in part what makes his pieces so creative and covetable. Which fashion lover didn’t lust over Scott’s Moschino Motorcycle Bags or his brilliant McDonald’s referencing logo bags? When Franco Moschino sent models down the runway in suits resembling classic Chanel, with “this is a waist of money” written where the gold chain would have been, he was making a statement about the excess of the ‘80s. When Scott sends graphic references down the runway he is making a statement about branding, by aligning his designs with the familiar and nostalgic he is commenting without statement. Through the prominent references in their designs both Moschino and Scott were exactly the kind of fashion commentator needed for their respective times. While Franco Moschino was bold, experimental and socially conscious, Scott emphasizes individuality in fashion during the age of appropriation, flipping the concept on its head in a way that only he can.
What exactly Scott will do with the space remains a mystery as he told WWD “It’ll have things from my entire career. We’re still figuring out exactly how we want to use the space. Right now I have the opportunity [to use all 26,000 square feet], but I’m not sure.” One thing to be sure of, a look back at one of the most colourful and outrageous mainstream designers of our time with a penchant for showmanship will be anything but boring.
(L) Moschino "Waist of Money" Suit, 1980s. (R) Moschino F/W 2014.
(L) Katy Perry and Jeremy Scott at the 2015 Met Gala. (R) Miley Cyrus and Jeremy Scott at his S/S 2015 Runway Show.
(L) Moschino A/W 1988. (R) Moschino S/S 2014 "Anniversary Show".
Isabelli Fontana in the MOSCHINO Toy perfume campaign - design by Jeremy Scott.
Linda Evangelista (L) & Carolyn Murphy (R) in Moschino F/W 2014 Ad Campaign (Photos by Steven Meisel)
Franco Moschino starring in his own Moschino campaign, 1990s.