CHANEL - From Karl Lagerfeld, an idea that he shows again and again that will surely influence the look of an evening dressing to come: the long dress over the short skirt. Of equal importance: the thigh-high boot—in satin—which reappears for day. Coco Chanel, explains Lagerfeld, just hated kneecaps.
(L) CHRISTIAN LACROIX - The inspiration for Christian Lacroix: Cher (or at least she could be). All the elements are there: the fringe, the minidress, the big boots, the hoop earrings. It’s the sixties all over again. Here, the evolution of last season’s painted jumpsuit (which everyone else copied this season)—the painted dress. (R) CHRISTIAN LACROIX - Gold ornamentation isn’t just decoration—it becomes an integral part of the design of a black bodysuit. The ornamentation for eyes: Estee Lauder’s Rich Black More Than Mascara.
(L) CHRISTIAN LACROIX - One of the strongest messages from the couture: coat dressing—coats that add a blast of color (hot pink is a favorite) or that function as a dress or tunic by themselves. Here, Christian Lacroix’s coat takes color blocking (which is everywhere) and layers on ornamentation with a kind of modern prayer shawl. (R) CHRISTIAN LACROIX - The lines between dresses and coats blur. On top, a cardigan coat in embroidered silk velvet; beneath, a belted dress in silk crepe. More subdued in color—Christian Dior’s Tailleur Haute Coleur Lipstick #636.
(L) CHANEL - Lagerfeld’s two-way approach to evening at Chanel: here, long over short with a beaded “overcoat” unsnapped to reveal a bead-edged high-waisted skirt. Just as dramatic: Chanel’s Purple Smoke Ombre Couture Eye Shadow. (R) CHANEL - Lagerfeld’s other take: just plain short. What looks like a dress is really a two-piece suit. And the most coveted boots in Paris: with a reverse “grillwork”; the perfect alternative to leggings.
(L) YVES SAINT LAURENT - When fur shows up, it’s as an ultimate luxury—a lining (to a coat, a dress) or an actual article of clothing. Here, from Yves Saint Laurent’s collection, which focuses extensively on the sheerest of negligee-like lace—a royal dressing gown in sable. The luminous eye shadow is Yves Saint Laurent’s Duo #99 in Creme/Chocolate Brown. (R) LANVIN - From Claude Montana, who stages a dramatic comeback in a very modern (though sometimes sharp-edged) collection for Lanvin—a mink bubble top over pants.
(L) GIANNI VERSACE - Straight from the mix master himself: Gianni Versace’s psycadelic pop. Here, it’s as if Pucci had said “Top this” and Versace did—with an amazing swirl of beads and silk satin optics. (R) GIANNI VERSACE - The hippest schoolgirl in Paris (or Milan, for that matter). More psychedelic colors, multiple checks, in a fitted jacket, pleated miniskirt.
(L) CHRISTIAN DIOR - What would the couture be without shine? This season there’s a deluge of it—for day, for night, long or short. Here, a clever mix of lace, fur and embroidery from Christian Dior. (R) EMMANUEL UNGARO - The shimmer here: from Emmanuel Ungaro, a cascade of beads and embroidery that’s much more subtle than sequins. A subtle approach to fragrance comes from a scented moisturizer (Calvin Klein’s Eternity Luxury Body Cream).
(L) CHANEL - A classic example of how rock ’n royalty run side by side. Velvet, the ideal vehicle for vibrant color, done up in Chanel’s floor-length dress that would have been perfect for Nancy Cunard. The Madonna influence: short high-heeled boots. (R) GIANNI VERSACE - Sixties update: Versace’s rockin’ mini—color blocked, in silk satin. The kicker: flower-power satin pumps. More color—on eyes: Cellular Complex Eye Colour in Violet by La Prairie.
(L) CHRISTIAN LACROIX - The innerwear-as-outerwear idea may have started in the streets, but lace crescendos at the couture. Here, the short side of lace (an applause getter at the shows_—Lacroix’s tiniest “nightie,” with a delicately laced back; it slide under a wonderful red velvet dressing gown/coat with sable cuffs. (R) YVES SAINT LAURENT - Even Yves Saint Lauren catches the lace message—with his showstopping slip of a dress that simply ties on the side.
Rock'n Royalty, Vogue US, October 1990. Photographer: Irving Penn / Models: Christy Turlington & Linda Evangelista / Stylist: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele / Make-up: Laura Mercier / Hair: Oribe