Jean Muir and models in Vogue, February 1975 (Photo: Deborah Turbeville)
With travel, ease, and movement among the key themes of the recent collections—think slip dresses, dancer layers, and sandals everywhere—it makes sense that designers were looking at the work of those who earlier embraced pack-and-go dressing. Jean Muir was known for her wear-anywhere jersey dresses; with their trompe l’oeil details, Roberta di Camerino’s were more decorative but just as unfussy to wear. Then, as now, Issey Miyake’s permanent pleated dresses added almost no weight to carry-ons. And we all know there’s nothing easier than pajama dressing—no wonder Irene Galitzine’s palazzo pj’s were a reference point. Here, a closer look at four guiding spirits of the Spring 2016 shows.
Giuliana Camerino, 1966; the designer’s trompe l’oeil designs in detail, and on the runway, 1973. (Photos (from left): Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images; Courtesy of James Nolan; Bernd Thiele / ullstein bild via Getty Images)
Irene Galitzine, in Vogue, February 15, 1952; Monica Vitti in a pajama outfit designed by Galitzine, 1962. (Photos: Clifford Coffin / Marisa Rastellini; Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images)
A 1990 design by Issey Miyake; the designer (far right) with (from left) Marie Helvin, Steve Strange, and Jerry Hall, 1982. (Photos (from left): Associated Newspapers / Rex / REX USA; Rex Features via AP Images)