At Geoffrey Beene, a new sense of color as design. Bright color. Combined. Recombined. Without gimmick. Without shock effects. Modern dressing that's pure and simple. Style... pure and simple.
Looking again through the latest New York collections (A/W 2015), I found myself viscerally missing the great American designers of the past. The American collections have always been known for being more commercial than their European counterparts, but it really seemed that the New York designers of the 1970s and 1980s were genuinely excited to make beautiful, wearable clothes—whether sportswear or cocktail dressing, there was an ease and an ebullience to many of their designs. This editorial from 1980 focused on three such designers—Geoffrey Beene, Perry Ellis and Oscar de la Renta—all of whom are dearly missed. Centering on the way each used color in a novel and different ways within their collections, the trademark melancholy romanticism of Deborah Turbeville's images skillfully emphasizes each designer's individual aesthetics.
Photographs by Deborah Turbeville for Vogue, February 1980.
A new sense of color... At Perry Ellis, transparent ghosts of color. Pale, paler, palest... weightless, whisper-light colors in unexpected ways... as modern temptations.
A new sense of color... At Oscar de la Renta, the enchantment of fantasy color... brilliant prints... ruffled harlequins... dazzling gold... dreams within dreams in a glorious spectacle of color.