Guy Bourdin & Lancetti 1982

Posted by Laura
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The "tapestry" silk shantung tunic, Lucchini-Etro, is cut straight with a square neckline finishing in Renaissance style sleeves. The pants, in silk in warm tones of a flowery fantasy, Lucchini-Etro, narrow at the ankles.

With the large retrospective of Guy Bourdin's work at Somerset House in London (up until March 15th), there has been a resurgence of interest in his photographs (not that his influence ever seems to go away). As he is one of my favourite photographers I have long collected magazines with his images, and thought I might share one that I've never seen reprinted or exhibited anywhere. Showcasing Pino Lancetti's couture collection for Spring 1982, the editorial combines Bourdin's signature surrealism with the arch luxury of the 1980s.

All clothes by Lancetti and all photographs by Guy Bourdin from Linea Italiana, March 1982.


Splendid flaming lamés, Luccchini-Etro, interpret sparkling evening dresses. Softly full "harem" pants are teamed with a top embroidered with geometrical designs in jet, which embraces the hips. On the right, the outfit with a sash draped and knotted round the hips, and a bodice with a deep plunging neck and bouffant sleeves, is a mass of exaggerated volumes and overlapping.


The taffeta dress with oblique strips and scattered flowers, is like an immense corolla. Simple top, sash around the waist, three airy flounces form the skirt. On the right, "Dolly" dress in pink and lace. The little black bodice with short puff sleeves formed of close ruches, a triumph of flowers, closed in a frame of stripes, the skirt is taffeta.


Black and white played with flashes of vivid color find their impeccable interpretation in the crêpe-de-Chine outfit (in front) with stripes and "labyrinth" motifs: ultra-full pants and loose bodice. Stylized flowers and strips create a "yoke effect" with round shoulders in the straight crêpe tunic (at the back).


Black and white for the day. The classical taiilor-made proposes a chalked skirt, a silk blouse with a dizzy plunge and a white linen jacket, black trimmed. On the right, the new cotton jacket, to be worn with bermudas and a camisole top in entredeux lace, has insert motifs.


On the right, Besides the new jacket with inserts, another motif appears again in the collection: the leather blouson jacket, stamped with fantastic starfish. The transparent blouse is held by the skirt with a striped silk basque cinching the waist.


Precious objects and sought-after colors make an Oriental evening. The top, with a belt holding the ultra-full shiny-opaque taffeta skirt is a sparkling mosaic of jet. On the right, shiny silk loose jacket in a peerless Paisley fantasia, with a sash round the hips which exaggerates the blouson effect. The ultra-gathered skirt draped on one hip is restrained also.


Both the cut and the motif of the chiffon dress are geometrical which create the long bodice, softened by a collar-frill, the same which skims the am. Three flounces, decorated with tiny white ornament.




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