1907-1920 Fortuny Peplos Gown

"Mariano Fortuny created a number of variations of his pleated silk gowns. In this model, he combined elements of the classical chiton and the peplos. A "tunic" is attached along its neckline to a long sleeveless underdress, suggesting the apoptygma of the classical peplos. This effect is further emphasized by the handkerchief points at either hip, which would have been seen on the sides of an authentic apoptygma. In the ancient Grecian peplos, the arm openings were positioned along the neckline edge rather than the sideseam edges. This resulted in a dipping hemline at either side of the garment when worn. Fortuny took this structural attribute and achieved the similar, purely decorative effect by cutting away at the tunic's front and back hem. Further, he interpreted the buttoned or pinned closings characteristic of a chiton's shoulder seams by connecting the topline seam of the tunic's sleeves with Venetian glass beads interlaced with silk "rat tail" cording. Fortuny was noted for his antiquarian intentions and scholarly treatment of classical dress, yet in the end, he invented rather than replicated a Hellenic style."

This peach version is a very fine Fortuny Peplos gown, circa 1907-1920. Hand dyed to an Apricot, the pleated silk has a corded silk drawstring at the neck, short kimono style sleeves and an attached tunic with pointed side panels all of which are weighted with clear, Venetian white striped beads. The gown is in very good condition. The silk is strong and wearable with no splits in the pleats. The pleats are intact throughout, with just the slightest of softening in the arm areas - please super size the photos to view. There is a slighte fading of the color in the upper arm area as well. Even the one from the MET seems to have the same softening of the pleats and color through the arm area and I believe this occurs partly from age and partly as a result of the pleats being moved more in this area when worn. All the beads are present. The color, style of sleeve and type of beads used place this in the very early years of Fortuny's career. There is no label present (this was not uncommon in the earlier pieces) but I have had it verified by the senior curator at the Royal Ontario Museum and guarantee it to be a Fortuny.

It is 56" long from the mid neck at the back to the hem and does not appear to be altered or changed in any way from its original condition.

Note that antique and twenties pieces are final sale. They will be packed exceedingly well and we only sell pieces that will stand up to the stress of shipping, however, having pieces potentially shipped multiple times through multiple customs and countries is too hard on garments that are historically important and deserve to be treated with love and care. Please purchase accordingly.

Item# DD216

This garment is in sound, clean, as found condition and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival