Shadows and Lights on the New Evening

Posted by Laura
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A nice swimsuit, which could also be an evening suit... A one-piece romper, Hollywood-style, white Lycra with lavender braid, with thin straps. On the belt, a box-shaped heart. Courreges prototype.



With its title echoing the key characteristics of Horst P. Horst's inimitable style, this 1978 editorial from Vogue Paris is a sumptuous chiaroscuro rendering of the finest fashions of that era. Horst learned his craft from Hoyningen-Huene in 1930, which is clearly evident in the Art Deco poses and settings of many of the images. The clothes themselves cover a broad range of styles and occasions—from a white swimsuit by Courreges, to a tuxedo by Bohan for Dior and a rather luxurious Chinese-style jacket by Ungaro. Horst's spotlights (he was known for the complexity of his lighting, which often took two days to setup) cleverly emphasize the most important element of each design, whether the simplicity of a white shantung pantsuit or intricate beaded leaves by Lesage. His photographs elevate the garments beyond their place in the fashion collections of that season, making them appear timeless and reiterating a well-know quote by him: “Fashion is an expression of the times. Elegance is something else again.”


Mounia and unknown model photographed by Horst P. Horst for Vogue Paris, March 1978. 


A pantsuit white with Nehru elegance and the Mao cut. The "Mao" trousersuit of natural shantung silk, long jacket collar and welt pockets and straight trousers setbacks. Gerard Pipart for Nina Ricci.



This is a suit tailored to dance ... A short jacket with shawl collar,  shrunken ankle-length pants in black silk gabardine; blouse  of white cotton voile and a grosgrain bow. Christian Dior designed by Marc Bohan.



Held at the Sultana: ivory georgette blouse and georgette pants  embroidered in blue, ivory taffeta quilted jacket, with blue braid and gold embroidery by Lesage. Jules-Francois Crahay for Lanvin.



Black chiffon sheath, fully embossed, halter-neckline edged in ruffles; big flower and silk ribbon belt; it is worn with a matching coat, sleeveless, ruffled borders. Hubert de Givenchy.



This is a dress-mystery of raining gold on diaphanous black...Long asymmetrical black chiffon tunic, embroidered in gold by Vermont over a long matching skirt. Hubert de Givenchy.



Long strapless sheath, asymmetrical apron of periwinkle purple double crepe georgette with sash on the shoulders and garland of orchids. Gerard Pipart for Nina Ricci.



Strapless long dress, and knotted jacket of champagne crepe georgette printed with butterflies and flowers. Hanae Mori Paris.



L: Beige chiffon evening pajamas with draped halterneck. Scarf and gilded chain belt. Carven.  /  R: Chemise dress in white satin crepe, a middle enlarged by folds that are caught in the belt: large waterfall collar and turn-back cuffs. Torrente. 



Asymmetrical sheath of pale green satin with wrapped apron effect, drapes from one shoulder. Pierre Cardin.



The large coat with sharp folds, harmonious and rustling ... Opera coat of coral silk taffeta, large puffed sleeves and small loose folds at the waist; it opens over a strapless ivory dress of embroidered tulle. Jules-Francois Crahay for Lanvin.



A blast of ostrich feathers as living wings... A long dress with asymmetrical bodice of embroidered openwork of beige and ivory leaves by Lesage, beige silk crepe skirt and short ivory chiffon cape embroidered by Lemarié with fine feathers of ostrich from South Africa. Chanel.



L: A little theater in a coat painted by La Tour... Ivory chintz coat embroidered with flowers in sky blue, pagoda sleeves and lacing effect  on the seams. Satin pants tightened at the ankle. Emanuel Ungaro.  /  R: Romantic Englishwoman with a flowered suit... Crepe de Chine suit printed with flowers; belted jacket with widened shoulders  and notched collar; flared skirt. Jean-Louis Scherrer.



Judoka kacket of white cotton pique damask , edged in braid over pleated black satin trousers. Jean Patou designed by Roy Gonzales.



Beaded dress with Renaissance sleeves... Robe of red crepe georgette with draped sleeves trimmed with golden embroidery and belt on the hips, embroidered and fringed. Guy Laroche.



Beaded dress all verticals, all linear... Ankle-length dress in navy crepe georgette, embroidered by Vermont in an Art Deco motif, the effect of a plastron and apron, red and blue beads. Louis Feraud.

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