Photos: (from left) Celine 2016 by Monica Feudi / Indititalimages.com / Jean Muir dress photographed by Helmut Newton, Vogue, October 1974.
Phoebe Philo’s Spring collection for Céline was a ticket to ride. She designed it for the woman who is ready to spread her wings and kick off her shoes. The clothes were as efficient as they were simple and elegant, with speedy zip closures and forgiving elastic inserts.
Smart dresses with simple silhouettes were made in packable knits, and they had just a hint of that moody ’70s vibe that permeates the images of renowned photographer Deborah Turbeville. One of the leading fashion designers in Britain at that time was the jersey-loving Jean Muir, described as being “to the ’70s what Mary Quant was to the ’60s.” Like Philo, Muir resisted the siren call of the past. “Nostalgia is opting out; I loathe it,” she once said. Yet, having found her niche, Muir stuck with it, whereas Philo quietly—but firmly—advances the fashion conversation each season.
(L) Joanna Lumley in Jean Muir, 1977 - Rex USA; Gianni Pucci. (R) Céline, Spring 2016 - Indigitalimages.com.