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Liz Tilberis and Harper's Bazaar

Posted by Meghan
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Liz Tilberis, Didier Malige and Anna Wintour, 1991.

Under the tutelage of editor-in-chief Liz Tilberis, the uninspired and antiquated Harper’s Bazaar was reborn as the fashion world’s chief arbiter of cool and subdued elegance in the 1990s. Tilberis, a native of England, spent the 20 years previous to her tenure at Harper’s Bazaar as staff member and editor at British Vogue. Upon assuming her post at Bazaar in 1992, her first cover of the September issue was a monochrome study in black and white featuring Linda Evangelista with only one headline––“Enter the Era of Elegance.” With this move, Tilberis brazenly set herself apart from the cluttered covers of fashion publications at the time and established the tone for the minimalist art direction Bazaar would take on for the next seven years. When she began at Harper’s Bazaar, her aim was to make it “the most beautiful magazine in the world.” Arguably, she just might have, though Bazaar never caught up to Vogue in circulation or advertising sales. Tilberis cultivated an exceptional ensemble of models, photographers, stylists, hairstylists, and makeup artists which became her core group in creating her subdued and elegant aesthetic. Among them are Patrick Demarchelier (whose work is unarguably the most featured under Ms. Tilberis’ authority), Mario Testino, Mario Sorrenti, Paolo Roversi, Peter Lindbergh, Wayne Maser, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Nadja Auermann, Linda Evangelista, Kristen McMenamy, and the late makeup artist Kevin Aucoin. Though her penchant for the cooly minimal look may seem like it would be alienating and unapproachable to a reader, the stark images which filled the pages of her issues were invigorated with an energy and lightness that were infectious. Tilberis, who lived with ovarian cancer during her time at Harper’s Bazaar, passed away on April 21,1999 after seven years with the publication. The cover of the July issue with Tom Cruise was the last cover she had approved before her death––the issue was dedicated entirely to Liz with all ad revenue going towards the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund. Below is a collection of images from Harper’s Bazaar spanning from September 1992 to May 1999 under the editorial direction the master of minimal, Liz Tilberis.

 

(L) Linda Evangelista, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1992. (R) "Wild", Kate Moss, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1992. 

 

(L) Tyra Banks, Photo by Paolo Roversi, November 1992. (R) "The Coat", Magali Amadei, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, October 1992.

 

(L) "Clean Cut", Claudio Mason,  Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, December 1992. (R) "Wig It" Kristen McMenamy, Photo by by Patrick Demarchelier, November 1992.

 

(L) "Fall's Refined Appeal", Christy Turlington, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1992. (R) "A White Shirt" Christy Turlington, Photo by David Sims, August 1993.

 

(L) "The New Suit" Kristen McMenamy, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, February 1993. (R) "White" Christy Turlington, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, January 1993.

 

(L) "Body of Evidence" Kate Moss, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, July 1993. (R) "Little Me" Christy Turlington, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, May 1993.

 

(L) "What Suits?" Nadja Auermann, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, May 1993. (R) "Anatomy of a Suit" Linda Evangelista, Photo by David Sims, September 1993.

 

(L) "Artistry!" Christy Turlington, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1993. (R) "Go With the Flow" Kate Moss, Photo by Enrique Badulescu, April 1994.

 

(L) "Paris Couture" Amber Valletta, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, April 1994. (R) "The General Drift" Kristen McMenamy, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, April 1994.

 

(L) "Bringing Up Baby" Kristen McMenamy, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, December 1994. (R) "Silver Streak" Beri Smithers, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, February 1994.

 

(L) "All American" Christy Turlington, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, January 1994. (R) "Desire" Nadja Auermann, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, July 1994.

 

(L) "Pants" Emma Balfour, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, June 1994. (R) "In Deep" Nadja Auermann, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, March 1994.

 

(L) "An Ode to the Female Form" Nadja Auermann, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, October 1994. (R) "Le Freak C'est Chic" Nadja Auermann, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1994.

 

(L) "Power Play" Kirsty Hume, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, February 1995. (R) "Sex Games" Christy Turlington, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, January 1995.

 

(L) "She Was That Kind of Dame…" Linda Evangelista, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, April 1995. (R) Kate Moss, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, April 1995.

 

(L) "Camel Trip" Kristen McMenamy, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, August 1995. (R) "Law Suit" Stella Tennant, Photo by Wayne Maser, August 1995.

 

(L) "Modified" Trish Goff, Photo by Mario Testino, July 1995. (R) "TX, Stop, End…" Linda Evangelista by Peter Lindbergh, March 1995.

 

(L) "The Lean Season" Christy Turlington, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, October 1995. (R) Christy Turlington, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1995.

 

(L) Christy Turlington, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, September 1995. (R) "Uniformity" Amy Wesson, Photo by Wayne Maser, August 1996.

 

(L) "Born in the USA" Nikki Taylor, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, February 1996. (R) "Laced" Amit Machtinger, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, February 1996.

 

(L) "Big Print" Kristen McMenamy, Photo by Jean Baptiste Mondino, March 1996. (R) "Knit Wit" Kate Moss, Photo by Craig McDean, November 1996.

 

(L) "On Course for Resort" Linda Evangelista, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, November 1996. (R) "Pacific Blue" Kate Moss, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, April 1997.

 

(L) "Walking Dream" Tanga Moreau by Mario Sorenti, February 1997. (R) "The Flesh Tones" Naomi Campbell, Photo by Peter Lindbergh, February 1997.

 

(L) Highway Star" Kate Moss, Photo by Terry Richardson, June 1997. (R) "Seasonless Dress" Linda Evangelista, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, March 1997.

 

(L) All Shook Up" Kate Moss, Photo by Terry Richardson, September 1997. (R) "Island Girl" Kate Moss, Photo by Mario Sorrenti, November 1997.

 

(L) "Go Crazy" Kate Moss, Photo by David Sims, September 1997. (R) "Stark" Stella Tennant, Photo by Craig McDean, March 1998.

 

"Meet Me in Havana" Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, Photos by Patrick Demarchelier, May 1998.

 

(L) "Bikini Baby" Naomi Campbell, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, May 1998. (R) Madonna, Photo by Patrick Demarchelier, February 1999.

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