valentino
Dreamiest Spring 2007 Valentino Pleated & Bias Cut Pink Silk Chiffon Dress w Open Tie Back
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When hunting for the provenance of this dress we found its twin attributed as being from Spring 2007 but I feel like it could be from somewhere between that the 2004 collection where he used ties like this one has to hold the dresses onto the body. I know I have seen this one somewhere at some point so one day on the future I am sure I will send its new owner a reference photo. It is one of the pieces that would have been made in limited quantities and it is utterly spectacular. It also has the significance of being from the final few years that Mr. Valentino was still designing before he retired. It is incredibly beautiful and it might even make an amazing wedding dress for the bride looking for a non-traditional choice or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event.
This soft romantic pink silk chiffon dress is stunning on the body. The layers of chiffon float over each other to allow it to drape beautifully over the body and highlight your every curve in a very flattering way. The bodice has a soft and romantic feel to it and it is finished with his signature tiny pleat work that follows the way the silk has been laid out. A panel wraps around the top of the bodice and then under that more panels are set on angles that cross each other. At the side it splits and extends into two long ties that open out into silk chiffon panels that you then wrap and tie across the back. Panels of chiffon extend out from the top of the bodice to tie behind the neck and then there is a final little tie at the small of your back. This leaves bits of your back exposed and bare. Despite the romantic feel the dress has this gives it a very sexy feel at the same time. It is just tremendously beautiful. The way that all of the panels and ties are set are done to perfectly emphasize your curves and add that signature Valentino femininity. The workmanship is exquisite. Under the bodice there is a little panel of chiffon that floats around the hips. The skirt skims over the hips under that and then falls to the floor in a beautiful drape of chiffon. The front centre of the skirt is split. This lets you see a mile of leg as you walk or sit and it also gives you a sense of the three layers of silk chiffon that make up the skirt. The split allows the air to catch the layers and float around you as you walk. The skirt extends down slightly longer at the back so that you get a pretty sweeping feel as you walk. The fabric is feather light. It is incredible and I love it. No matter how good it looks in the photos when this is on and moving it is even better. Excellent condition.
Fully lined with pink silk chiffon and closes with a hidden set zipper at the low back waist and ties in place above that. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a vintage Valentino 8. The ties make it adjustable, so this should fit a range of sizes
Bust: 15-16" flat across from side seam to side seam and adjustable an inch or two from there with the back ties
Waist: adjustable with tie
Seam at the top of the hip/ low waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19 flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from neck to front hem, 75" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4602
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john galliano
Spectacular Fall 2003 John Galliano Bias Cut Mauve Purple Silk Dress w Draped Arm Panels
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This dress is from John Galliano's own label and is an incredible example of his work from this time period. This is a production piece that was not shown on the runway but would have been made in limited quantities for the shops. For this season he had emphasized a glamorous hourglass shape mixed with nods to pinup girl lingerie style dressing. These bias cut dresses always harken back to his love of the 1930s and 1940s and you can see that influence in them. This dress with its cut out detailing and that fantastic draping of fabric across the shoulders is absolutely beautiful. This is classic Galliano and is extremely flattering once on the body.
The dress is made out of a deep mauve purple silk that has a slight bit of texture to it. It is completely cut on the bias in that signature cut he does so well and that we all love. The dress falls from a delicate strap that curves up and behind the neck and then it drapes down and over the body to the floor. It is very beautiful. The bias cut of it allows the dress to skim and drape over you so that it shows every curve but is not overly fitted. The seaming is highly reminiscent of the work you see from the twenties and thirties. The fabric has been pieced together with dropped and angled panels throughout to create the beautiful shape that you see here. The dress is suspended from tiny straps that curve up and around the neck. The strap meets and then drops down the centre of the back and panels are suspended from it. These curving panels are fascinating. They can hang down and under the arms at the side or you can drape your arms through them to create that beautiful curving panel at the back that you see in some of the photos. We tried to style and show it in the various ways it can be worn and I love the versatility of it. I think that on a real body you might even be able to get clever and do some other styling tricks with them as well. The dress glides over the body past the bust, waist and hips and then flares out as it reaches the hem. On one side of the dress it buttons to close with a row of his signature tightly spaced buttons covered in the same silk and then on the other side the fabric is gathered in and up into a wired circle. The circle is open in the centre and the panels that gather into the circle have been cut out and opened so that it forms the shape of a flower trailing over one hip. The dress is lined in a crepe silk but you could choose to remove that lining and have that side be completely bare so that your skin showed through if you wished. I have seen this dress in another colour where someone did that and it made it that much more sexy. It is an incredible feat of patterning. The dress is even better in person and on the body as the static photos cannot fully convey how a bias cut dress moves. They only truly come to life when worn. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
Fully lined in a slightly deeper purple silk crepe and closes at the side with a series of silk covered buttons. I see perhaps a tiny pull in the fabric here and there which happens with this fabric and a bit of shininess here and there from pressing near seams. All minor and mentioned for accuracy. Tagged a FR42, GB14, US8. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes with it just draping more in a smaller frame
Bust: 16-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13-16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 63" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4599
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
luisa beccaria
Most Romantic Resort 2020 Luisa Beccaria Runway Look 24 Blue & Ivory Silk Chiffon Dress
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The twin of this dress was Look 24 for the Resort 2020 presentation and I love having that reference photo for you to show how amazing it is on the body. The Luisa Beccaria label is out of Italy and is run by the mother-daughter team of Luisa and Lucilla Beccaria. They are known for their incredibly feminine pieces that have an almost story book feel to them. The cost of their pieces run into the thousands and their clothing is very well made. This season was a coup for the label as they were fresh from designing the wedding dress Lady Gabriella Windsor. And well deserved. The label's pieces always have a sense of romance to them. Vogue said of the collection that; 'Beccaria’s style is at its most resplendent when she’s designing for elegant soirées and receptions with a sense of occasion. Resort offered plenty of choices in embroidered lace, layered tulle, macramé, and wispy organza.'
This is everything you look for in a piece by the Beccaria label. It has a stunning floral design print screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. The entire dress has been printed with that gorgeous and romantic flower design in pale shades of blue and I love it. The neckline is set in a higher collar around the neck with a long tie that you can let trail down the back as they did in the collection photos or wrap and tie it into a beautiful soft bow at the front like I did for most of these shots. The silk has been gathered into the collar for pretty detail on the bodice and this adds a pretty softness there. From the neckline it skims to the waist and it comes with a matching tie belt in the same fabric that has a cut out flower that matches the print on the belt. I love this extra little thought into the design and how this gives you the option of wearing it more cinched in through the waist. The skirt falls to the floor under that, and the silk is all biased cut and there is a ton of fabric in the skirt. It is so light and there is so much fabric that your slightest movement causes the skirt to float around you as you move. It is beautiful to see. It is also in its original uncut length so it is very long. The sleeves are fantastic. Each is an incredibly full balloon sleeve made out of a single layer of the silk chiffon. They pouf out dramatically above the cuff and each cuff ends in a split ruffle that is angled down longer on one side. The movement and drama the entire dress has is extraordinary. This is a dress that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning and very romantic example of her work and beautifully made. I love it. It comes with its original hang tags and was never worn. Excellent condition
The outer dress is unlined and it comes with a matching ivory bias cut silk chiffon slip to wear underneath. It closes with hook and eye at the back of the neck and a hidden set side zipper. Elastic through the waist and at the end of each cuff. The original tie belt is included. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a variety of sizes. It will just drape more on a smaller frame and be more fitted on a larger frame. In its original uncut length, and appears to have never been worn. Tagged a modern 46 and has its original hangtags.
Outer Dress
Sleeves: approx 29" but meant to come up once on and 18" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no true defined seam
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from neck to waist
Total length: 67" from top of shoulder to hem
Inner Separate Slip
Bust: 17-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16-20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20-24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 67" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4590
Reference Photo: Resort 2020 Luisa Beccaria, Look 24.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Impeccable Fall 1984 John Anthony Couture Black & Gold Hand Sequin & Beaded Runway Jacket
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John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This jacket is from his Fall 1984 collection and is the original sample from his archives. We also were able to find the runway photo of the jacket and you can see just how amazing this one is on the body.
The first thing you notice about this jacket is the weight. Thousands of glass tube beads and sequins cover the jacket and this gives it weight yet once on the body it does not feel uncomfortable to wear. It is stunning. It has a beautiful easy cut and it sits wonderfully on the body. This one has no closures and is meant to be layered over other pieces and just be that easy but super luxe piece you just throw on. The shoulders have some padding for a bit of shape and the sleeves fall from there in a straight sleek line so that they have a touch of width. The cut through the body is more towards a box shape and then it comes in a touch at the waist for some shaping. It is meticulously tailored. John told me that creating jackets was one of his favourites things to do. They are infinitely challenging to have them sit perfectly on the body and his are tailored to a master level. The neckline is a sleek and simple with now collar. The upper part of the body of the jacket has a touch of volume and you can see this on the runway photo. The entire jacket is covered in glossy black glass tube beads that have a bit of a pewter finish to them, mixed with tiny matte gold sequins. The beads and sequins are all applied by hand and are set into a dense pattern that covers every inch of the entire jacket. They completely cover the silk that the jacket is made from. Each sequin is laid out so that it slightly overlaps its neighbour. To think of the man hours put into this jacket is incredible. The personal attention to each piece is clearly seen in the workmanship of his designs. His work is very expensive and beaded jackets like this retailed for up to $6,500 in the 80s and 90s which would be around $25k in modern dollars to recreate at this level. This is the actual sample jacket and it is the one that appears in the runway photo we have included here. It is meant to have that slightly oversized feel. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a gold toned silk with no closures. Padding in each shoulder. Made by hand, one of a kind and pristine. Its easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. It will just be more oversized on a smaller frame
Sleeves: 23" long and 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: approx 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom seam: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4576
Reference Photos: Fall 1984 John Anthony Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Spectacular Fall 1988 John Anthony Bias Cut Taupe Silk Chiffon Wrap Dress w Hand Made Lace Detailing
I Have a Question
John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This dress is from his Fall 1988 collection and is the original sample from his archives. We found a photo of a dress on the runway from this same collection with the same cut through the top so you can get an idea of how this will sit on the body. John told me that this dress was made for the runway as well and was edited out once the final line up was done. I love this dress and am so happy to let it have its full moment now. His work is amazing on the body and transforms once it is on and moving.
This dress is absolutely stunning and it is among my favourites from the pieces he has sent to us so far. It is very light in weight once on the body. It is made from the most beautiful feather light silk chiffon. Bias cut silk chiffon is incredibly hard to work with and for this dress he has layered it with each layer falling perfectly over each other. The dress is made of three layers of the chiffon. The two innermost layers are unadorned and then the top layer has the black lace detailing added to it. It slips on and zips up at the front and this is all cleverly hidden with a panel that wraps and snaps into place to one side. The snaps continue down under the lace detail on the skirt. The snaps only close it part of the way and a thigh high slit is left so that when you walk you will see a mile of bare leg. The front plunges into a V and there is a caped feeling panel of hand made black French lace that drapes over the shoulders for the prettiest romantic touch. This wraps all the way around the back and I love how it drapes there. The lace at the front curves down and to the side and then trails all the way down the skirt to the hem. A wide order of it is placed all the way around the hem. I love the way the lace is all perfectly and meticulously set onto the silk with thousands of tiny precise stitched done to hold it in place and follow the pattern in the lace. This is couture level detailing. At the back, the skirt extends out a bit past the hem to sweep behind you as you walk. The silk is so light that your slightest movement causes it to float around you. It is very beautiful. Excellent condition.
Made of three layers of silk chiffon as described above and closes with a hidden set front zipper and then hidden set snaps down the side. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 14" from top of shoulder to waist
Total length: 64" from top of shoulder to front hem, 76" to the longest point of the back hem
Slit: 34" from front hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4555
Reference Photo: Fall 1988 John Anthony Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
john anthony
Fall 1980 John Anthony Couture Black Hand Sequin & Beaded Jacket w Incredible Rhinestone Closures
I Have a Question
John Anthony's business was all done on a made-to-order basis. That means that each piece is the only one that exists, or in the very occasional circumstance that there are similar pieces, only a very limited amount of pieces were made. And to make things even a little more special.... the pieces I have in the shop come directly from John's archive. He is one of the great American couturiers and he was known for his sharp tailoring and striking evening wear. He launched his atelier in 1971 and he quickly rose to fame, winning a Coty award in 1972 and then again in 1976. This jacket is from his Fall 1980 collection and is the original sample from his archives.
This jacket is stunning to see in real life. It has a beautiful sleek cut and it is meant to be more fitted through the body. I love that it completely closes as this allows you to wear it on its own or layer it over other pieces. The shoulders have light padding for shape and the sleeves fall from there in a sleek line. The waist is brought in just a touch as it glides over the body. It is meticulously tailored and John told me that creating jackets were one of his favourites things to do. They are infinitely challenging to have them sit perfectly on the body and his are tailored to a master level. It has no collar and the neckline is a sleek V. It closes down the front with a series of hidden silk covered snaps and then there are three glass rhinestone buckles that close over the front. They are spectacular. The entire jacket is covered in glossy black sequins. These have all been set by hand and completely cover the silk that the jacket is made from. Each sequin is laid out so that it slightly overlaps its neighbour. To think of the man hours out into this jacket is incredible. The final finishing touch on this one are the bold motifs beaded onto the sequins on each side at the front. These have a 3D effect and sit up and off of the sequins below. The personal attention to each piece is clearly seen in the workmanship of his designs. His work is very expensive and beaded jackets like this retailed for up to $6,500 in the 80s and 90s which would be around $25k in modern dollars to recreate at this level. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Filly lined in a black silk and closes at the front with hidden set silk covered snaps. The rhinestone clasps close over that. Padding in each shoulder. Made by hand, one of a kind and pristine.
Sleeves: 22" long and 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4551
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Pre-Fall 2018 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Grey Runway Look 13 Grey Pin Striped Pant & Jacket Pant Suit
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I have a small grouping of Chanel pieces that will be listing over the next week or so and they all come from an avid Couture and Chanel collector. Many of these pieces were extremely difficult to source when they were released and were only made in very limited quantities. They are in amazing condition and all but one have their original shop packet that has the extra fabric and style information. These are exceptional pieces for the collector and each is extremely special.
This is a suit pieced together from the actual Chanel sample jacket for this look and then the pants were purchased at retail by my client. It is incredibly rare to find a sample piece so that is a little extra special. The twin of the suit was worn for Look 13 for the Chanel Métiers d’Art show. The show was set in the Hamburg concert hall and that setting held an extra special place for Karl since it was his hometown. The concert hall had just been opened and for this show Karl mixed the modernity of the new space with his memories of Hamburg as a child “I’ve never left; this is part of me,” he reflected after the show. “I like Hamburg as an idea; something in the back of my mind.” Vogue noted 'You saw what that was, the essence of his inspiration, in a flash: Sailors in peaked caps on leave, girls in thigh-high boots and leather, the people who mill around docks and nightclubs. The clothes evoked ’60s beatniks, countercultural girls in sweaterdresses, smartly dressed officers in uniform, and naval ratings in sailor pants—looks that ran up and down the register of the cool, the hip, and the immaculately classic. It was an obvious, simple idea, really, but one marinated in a mind that has the sophistication to align the results with Coco Chanel’s heritage, and with what any girl would absolutely kill to wear right now.'
The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. Both pieces are made out of a pinstriped virgin wool that allows them to retain the exact lines that Lagerfeld intended while still staying light in weight. The jacket is cut so that it is fitted across the shoulders and then falls in a more box shape to the top of the hips. The collar is neat and small and I love how there is an inset of a white waffle weave cotton for a crisp little pop. That same little pop of cotton is set within each cuff so that it feels perfectly tied together. It buttons to close up one side and the buttons themselves are incredible. I took a detail shot so you can see that they are especially done with both Paris and Hamburg noted on them. The bottom hem is banded and there is a little top set pocket on one side. Each sleeve is long and straight and they end in a notched slit held by a button rather than a traditional cuff which falls in line with the sleek minimalist feel of the rest of the suit. Beside the little pop of white at the end there is also a little 'hidden' surprise of another functional pocket that sits at the end of the one sleeve nearest the pocket on the front. I am obsessed with this little detail. The pants are sleek and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted with a slanted slip pocket on each hip under the waist band. Two more pockets are at the back and each is still tacked shut. The legs fall wide to the ankle with just the tiniest bit of a flare at the ends. Each leg is finished with a precise wide cuff. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is lined in a deep grey silk embossed with the Chanel logo. A signature Chanel chain runs along the inner hem of the jacket. Every stitch is perfection. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The jacket is lined in a grey Chanel embossed silk and closes with the buttons along the front panel as seen. It has a Chanel sample label and is tagged a modern Chanel 38. A pocket on the front and on each cuff. Metal embossed buttons and the signature Chanel chain around the inner hem. There is slight yellowing and grubbiness on the inner collar of the Chanel. The pants zip to close at the front and have hidden hook & eye at the bands. Slip pockets on each hip and two tacked shut pockets at the back The pants have their original Chanel packet and are tagged a modern Chanel 40
Jacket
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15"
Bust: to 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 22" from neck to head
Pant
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 40.5" from top of bodice to waist
Inseam: 29" from inner seam to hem
Gusset: 17" from waist to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4540
Reference Photo/Video: Pre-Fall 2018 Chanel, Look 13.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Softest Fall 1994 Christian Lacroix Runway Knit Printed Striped Slouchy Cardigan w Original Belt
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Christian LaCroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and was an instant success on the worldwide stage. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections are always exotic, lavish affairs and his designs seemed to span the decades with their eccentric glamour pulled from multiple sources of inspiration. The twin of this cardigan was shown on the fall 1994 runway and you can see how fantastic it is on the body. It's that perfect piece that walks the line between being easy and comfy and still glamorous.
This is a beautiful example of Christian's ready-to-wear work and it is made to be slightly oversized and easy to wear with an almost lounging robe feel to it in its cut. It is a piece that you can wear open and layered over other things or wrap and use the belt that comes with it or one of your own to have to feel more like a coat or to even be able to wear it on its own. It is made out of a mixed knit that is insanely soft to the touch and feels soft on the body so that it has the easy organic lines that you see. Everything about it is meant to convey ease and luxury. It has no closures and just slips on. The shoulders slope down and into those fabulously long ribbed cuffed sleeves. You can push the sleeves up, wear them long or roll them. The body of the cardigan is loose and generously cut. Pockets sit low on each hip and the collar has a wide shawl feel to it. The entire bottom is one in a ribbon to pick up the cuffs. It is gorgeous and once on, you won't want to take it off. Excellent condition.
Unlined with no closures but does come with its original twist tie belt. Tagged a size M but the loose and easy for will work on a large range of sizes. The smaller you are the more it will feel oversized.
Sleeves: 22" from he dropped shoulders
Dropped shoulders: 26"
Bust- hips: 29" flat across from side to side and narrows to about 23"at the ribbing
Length: 32" from neck to hem and hangs a bit longer once on the body
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-LRG
Item# DD4524
Reference Photo: Fall 1995 Christian Lacroix Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Spectacular Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Look 47 Runway Dot & Embroidered Floral Pouf Dress
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This is a very rare dress that is the twin of the dress that walked the Yves Saint Laurent Spring 1992 Haute Couture runway. It is extremely well documented and I have included photos of the original sketch and swatches that I have here from the Saint Laurent couture archive book set that I own in addition to runway reference photos of it that we found. You can see just how fantastic it is on the body. This was Look 47 and part of the short evening segment of the collection.
This collection marked Yves' 30 year anniversary and it was presented on January 29 to coincide exactly with his first collection presented January 29, 1962. The book, Yves Saint Laurent Catwalk, notes that at the time people were expecting a retrospective but Yves actually surprised everyone by producing a full 91 piece collection. There was a definitive tribute aspect to his first 1962 collection. Flowers were a main motif and ran throughout the collection as did polka dots and stripes. Puff sleeve tops with balloons skirts were integral and dresses like this one were a key look. It is an exceptional to have such beautiful documentation on this stunning dress. Every piece of Saint Laurent Couture is a treasure but when it's as highly documented in from such an important collection as this, it is just that much more special.
The dress is exquisite. It is made from a combination of a white silk that has been hand embroidered with roses and leaves across the entire bodice. This is then combined with a silk faille skirt that has dots that appear to be hand painted onto the fabric. A silk organza bow is wrapped around the waist and I love the deeper mustard yellow tone of it. It perfectly offsets the black and white palette. The neckline is scooped across the front and the bodice is meant to skim over the body to the waist. The sleeves are fantastic and each insets into the bodice in a series of pleats across the top of the shoulders. This is what gives them the volume that you see. The edges of the neckline are finished with a black cord and this runs around the cuffs as well. Each cuff is brought into the arm with a button and loop and this bringing in at the arm also helps to exaggerate the puff above. The entire silk of the top is embroidered in this magical, dreamy, black rose embroidery that pops against the white of the silk. The embroidery is done onto the silk directly in some places and then in other places the leaves or roses have been cut out and hand stitched in place. The waist is seamed but it is more generously cut and the organza ribbon that circles it adds the perfect pop of color. Under that the skirt is fantastically full and the fulness is created by the pleats that are set into the waist and the way it has been wrapped in and under at the hem to attach to the skirt underneath. Between the those two layers of the skirt you can feel that there is tulle and some structure inside that helps hold that exaggerated shape. It is a fantastic magical piece of Haute Couture and an important piece from an important collection. Excellent condition with a note below.
The bodice is lined in an ivory silk and the sleeves are unlined. The belt at the waist is attached and wrapped and hooked into place. The skirt is lined in the same fabric as the outer skirt and there is stiffening between the layers as described above. It closes at the back with a button at the top of the neck and then there is a hidden set side zipper too close. The dress is unlabeled, but I have seen the original label that came with the dress. The dress had been let out at some point and my client had it brought back in and unfortunately when she had it altered back to its original size, the tailor lost the tag. I see some very minor evidence of that alteration on the bodice. There are some areas of stress near the embroidery and some minor reinforcements underneath the arms. I see slight dustiness on the fabric at the top the shoulders and there is a tiny chip on the button on one sleeve. Perhaps a slight grubbiness along the inner edge of the lining under the arm. The outside presents as clean and fresh and once on it looks immaculate.
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 15" from top of shoulder to waist
Skirt: 18" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4509
Reference Photos: (1-3) Spring 1992 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture. / (4-6) From the book "Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture: L'oeuvre Integral 1962-2002".
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Fall 2006 Alexander McQueen 'The Widows of Culloden' Convertible Cashmere Wool Sweater Cardigan Jacket
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The Fall 2006 McQueen show is of course the show that famously ended with a hologram of Kate Moss twisting in the midst of a billowing white dress. Before that moment an incredible display of workmanship and craft walked the runway. Vogue noted that "For this collection, he delved into his past, revisiting his Scottish family roots and refining the contents of the rampaging tartan "Highland Rape" show with which he began his career in London in the early nineties. Shorn of its original rawness and anger, the result was a poetic and technically accomplished tale that involved romantic images of Scottish fantasy heroines wandering glens and castle halls in vaguely Victorian tartan crinolines, bird-wing or antler-and-lace headdresses, feathered gowns, and pieces made from brocades that might have been dragged down from ancient wall-hangings." Mid-show there was the appearance of several knit piece isn chunky cable knits including a version of this sweater coat that walked the runway for Look 23. This is a piece that shows Mcqueen's true genius and ability to look at pieces and reconfigure them to his own version.
This version of the piece that walked the runway is done in a deep blue and the fabric is a wool with a touch of cashmere mixed in for added softness. It is an incredible piece and a strong statement piece as well. The design is insane. When unfolded it falls to the floor with extended panels at the front. There are open slits at the side that are utilized when you fold it up but when it's hanging down, you can choose to leave those as is or you can tuck the extended front panels through them to create a bit of a knotted effect at the bottom, as I photoed here. On the runway, he showed it the way that I think it's meant to be worn best and that's with that extended panel folded up and then your arms go through those side openings. That extended panel then becomes like an attached vest over the inner cardigan. You can also drape one side over your shoulder like an attached scarf piece. It's fantastic and genius. The collar is high. There are two leather buckle straps that hold it in place across the front and it is open under that. The knit is a chunky fisherman cable knit in feel and I was told that these would have been hand knit. An incredible piece of McQueen. Excellent condition
Unlined and slips on to wear with the buckles at the front. 90% wool and 10% cashmere. It shows a tiny bit of pilling here and there but it's minor. The knit has some stretch so it should fit a range of sizes
Sleeves: 24" and the upper arm is 14-20" around
Dropped shoulders: 19"
Bust: 19-23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length with the panels extended: 53" from neck to shortest part of hem, 71" to the longest point
Length when the panels are folded up: approx 27" from neck to front hem and then the panels extend out past that
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-LRG
Item# DD4488
Reference Photos: Fall 2006 Alexander McQueen, Look 23, Model Romina Lanaro.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
lanvin
Extraordinary Fall 1952 Lanvin by Castillo Haute Couture Brilliant Blue Alpaca Coat w Button Front
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This is a stunning and extremely rare example of the Haute Couture work being done by the house of Lanvin during the years that Antonio Castillo headed the atelier. Castillo started off his career at the houses of Paquin and Piquet. He also did a stint designing accessories for Chanel. He quickly became known as one of the most promising designers to emerge after WWII and that reputation was part of why he was chosen in 1950 to become the head designer at the House of Lanvin. The press at the time lauded him, along with Balmain, Dior and Balenciaga, as the new generation of the Paris Couture designers. During his time at Lanvin the house was known for the simple and elegant lines. This is a very rare and early Haute Couture coat and we found a reference photo of its near twin that was styled with a belt, dramatic gloves and matching hat added. It is very beautiful and the colour is exceptional.
This coat is beautifully tailored. The double row of buttons at the front and curving cut makes it feel as chic and wearable now as it was when first made. It is entirely finished by hand and has its numbered couture tape under the label. It is so chic and a very important and rare piece. This is truly a vintage gem. It has a deceptively simple cut that hides the precise seams and masterfully tailored cut. It is constructed with the absolute minimal seam work to create the curves of the coat that you see. It is more fitted through the upper bodice and then skims over the waist and flares out slightly as it nears the hem. The collar is neat with a notched front and each sleeve ends in a turned up cuff. A half belt is attached at the back and you could add a belt over it to emphasize the shape even more. The fabric is amazing with a soft finish to it. I believe it is an Alpaca or perhaps a type of cashmere and it is extremely luxurious. The fact that it is dyed that amazing blue makes it that much more brilliant. It is even better in person and the fabric has to be seen and felt to truly be appreciated. This fabric choice allowed Castillo to be able to sculpt the exact shape that he desired. The front has detailed seaming that becomes part of the actual design and inside that is a double row of blue buttons that run down the front to the waist. You can wear this one open or do it up right to the neck like the reference photo. I love the sculptural effect the coat has once on and that beautifully full lower skirting. No shortcut was taken in the construction of this lovely coat and it is an outstanding piece of fashion history in every possible way. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a hand set black silk taffeta and closes with the button down the front. Finished to Haute Couture standards and entirely done by hand. The Haute Couture numbered tape label is present under the main label and is numbered 15.418. This is a medium to heavy weight coat
Sleeves: 22" and 13" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 45" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4489
Reference Photo: Model in Lanvin, 1952.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
Incredible 1976-1978 Loris Azzaro Strapless Glossy Black Sequin Dress wLayered Net Tulle Skirt
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work from the mid- to later part of the 1970s and is fantastically beautiful. No matter how good it looks on my dress form, in person and on the body it transforms into even more of a bombshell. It is spectacular. To give you an idea of the way the paper bodice fits I have included a photo of French singer Dalida and one if Raquel Welch both wear dresses similar to the bodice of this one. I think this one with its fantastical net tulle skirt is even more special
This is a killer dress. It is one that will come to life even more once it is on an actual body because this is a dress that in person it is even better. The movement it has cannot truly be captured until it is on a body and moving. The first thing you see is that the entire body of the dress is covered in overlapping glossy black sequins that catch the light from every angle. This detailing alone takes your breath away when you see the dress in person. The dress is strapless and the bodice is cut with a rounded sweetheart neckline and has shaped cups with one of hi signature inner tacked in strapless bras. It skims over the body from there gliding over the waist and hips. There is some shape at the waist but it is with a more easy feeling which keeps the dress feeling long and lean. Under that the skirt falls to the floor in an explosion of netted tulle that is set in ruffle layers that curve up and toward the centre front. The layers give the skirt so much volume and movement when you move and it is just incredible. When you move even the slightest, they move with you and it's gorgeous to see. It has a full underskirt in a black silk but the way the ruffle are set give the illusion of being more open at the front. I love how the dress curves around the hips and dips down slightly before turning into the tulle to give you maximum curves at the back as well. Above that the entire back is also left bare and open and it is as incredible from the back as it is from the front. The dress is wonderfully made. It is a stunning dress and you will definitely turn heads in it when you walk into the room. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and it closes with a zipper at the back. His signature copper strapless bra is tacked unsaid and you could remove or replace this is needed for a better fit. It is fuller through the waist and If you wanted a more hourglass feel you can alter the waist in. Elastic through the upper seam of the bodice. and the fabric has some give. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: 14-17" flat across from side seam to side seam with the current inner bra about a B to small C cup
Waist: 14-15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 18-19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of the shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item#DD4486
Reference Photos: (1) Raquel Welch with Loris Azzaro, 1978. / (2-3) Dalida in Azzaro, 1976. - First two photos from the book 'Azzaro: 50 Sparkling Years'.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
malcolm starr
One of Two Identical 1970s Malcolm Starr Red Zipper Front Coats w Applique & Braiding Detail SZ SML
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This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats, are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland.
This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below
Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see the teeniest bit yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and edge of the inner neck and makes on the inner lining under each arm. Please see the photo after the label shot. Tagged a vintage Small
Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4483
Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
malcolm starr
One of Two Identical 1970s Malcolm Starr Red Zipper Front Coats w Applique & Braiding Detail SZ MED
I Have a Question
This is one of two identical coats landing in the shop today. The only difference its that one is a medium (this one) and the other is a small. This is from the time period that Youssef Rizkallah headed the company. Youssef joined the Malcolm Starr label in 1969 and remained as the head designer until 1975. The years that Youssef headed the line are among some of my favorites and in particular his pieces that utilize quilting and patchwork, like these coats, are truly iconic. Rizkallah was born in Egypt and studied at the Ecole de dessin appliqué and the Ecole des arts decoratifs in Paris. His designs seem to combine that sense of couture lines that he gained in Paris with the colour and vividness of his homeland.
This is a wonderful piece that can be worn as either a coat or as a dress thanks to the zip front that completely opens. We were able to date it based on the very similar piece that was featured in the ad campaign for 1970. Which makes it a very early piece for his time at the label. The base of the coat is a red fabric that feels like a light wool that has a slight ribbed texture to it. The entire coat is detailed with a combination of a deep blue braiding and blue ric rac that follows the detailing and lines of the coat to emphasize the pattern and cut. Elaborate designs run around the hem and panels in the palest possible blue follow the lines of the coat. A floral patchwork is set around the hem and edged by the rib rack to create that fantastic design that you see. This anchors all the various parts of the design and gives a pop of contrast to the colour combination. The coat is collarless and it zips up the front. The shoulders are soft and the sleeves widen out to be full at their hem. The coat falls from the shoulders and widens out as it nears the hem. I took a shot of it laying flat so you can see the incredible shape that it has. It is quite full by the time it reaches the hem. Because it zips to close at the front and fully opens, you can wear this as a proper coat or you can wear it on its own as a dress, which lets it play double duty. It even has weights in the hem so that once on it falls perfectly in place and pockets that are hidden along those front seams. I just love that spectacular design through the body of the coat. It is so dramatic and like wearing art. I love it. Excellent overall condition with notes below
Fully lined in a hand set pale blue silk and closes down the front with an unpainted silver zipper. I see some faint yellowing, grubbiness to the bottom pale blue panel and maybe a touch of the same on the blue on the cuffs but I am being pretty picky there especially. Grubbiness to the inner lining around the hem and neck. Tagged a vintage Medium.
Sleeves: 24"
Inner shoulders: 14"
Bust: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4481
Reference Photo: "The Malcolm Starr All Starrs" Ad, 1970.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Documented Spring 1961 Christian Dior by Marc Bohan 'Slim Line' Haute Couture Debut Silk Jacket & Skirt Suit
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This is an incredible set that is extra special because it is from the debut Haute Couture collection of Marc Bohan. It has the added province of being documented which is sometimes not easy to find with these very early pieces. The book Dior, Catwalk talks about the reaction to this first collection by Bohan; "Thundering applause, led by the Duchess of Windsor, rolled through the elegant grey and white salons of the House of Dior, the happy ending to the suspense story of the fashion year. At stake was the future dominance of Dior, and the career of designer Mark Bohan. The Chicago Tribune hailed him as being "Mister Dior, the third". The New York Times stated "the shouting, clapping, surging mob at the press show cause chaos in the elegant salon. Bohan was pushed up against the boiserie, kissed, mauled and congratulated. Chairs were toppled. Champagne glasses were broken. People were knocked down. It was a complete triumph for the designer". The book goes on to state that; Bohan called the collection the "Slim Line". It was a streamlined take on the original "New Look". He revisited the day suit with wide cut jackets and low waisted flared skirts fitted at the hips. The Times declared it "a success from the appearance of the first model and worthy in the tradition of the great maestro himself. And Women's Wear Daily wrote three months after the collection was shown that "the Bohan flare is everywhere. Bohan has done the impossible. He is a big commercial success and respected by the fashion intellect."
The set is exceptional and is an excellent investment piece as well. Dior prices continue to skyrocket and finding couture examples like this from such an important collection and in this condition is getting harder and harder.
This suit is fantastic. It is actually two pieces. A flared skirt and then a top / jacket that goes over that. The top is fascinating in the way that it is cut and we were very happy to find and see in the reference photo of it that its construction is deliberate. The front only buttons at the bottom and then there is a snap just above that button to hold it closed. It is meant to stay open above that and the button holes that you see continuing up along the edge of the jacket are actually faux. They do not open all the way through. You can see in the photo that the model is wearing it the way that it's meant to be worn. The very bottom is closed and then she has a light top on underneath. This lets the jacket play on its volume that it has. You could certainly open the fabric and finish the buttonholes if you wish to wear it fully closed, but it is meant to be like this. The jacket has a lot of volume and is meant to skim over you and then the skirt is cut in a sleek little flare that skims over the hips and flares out with a series of flat pleats all the way around the skirt. Around the waist the silk lies flat and neat. It is very flattering once on the body. When you stand still the skirt lays flat and smooth but when you move you get an incredible burst of movement and volume. Over that goes the jacket with its wonderful to the elbow wide cut sleeves and oversized MOP buttons down the front. The shoulders are soft and there is no collar. The fabric is a very high end silk twill dyed to that pale tan mixed with white. Both pieces are entirely finished by hand to Haute Couture standards and I've shown some of the detailing inside. It is chic and elegant yet still feels edgy. An amazing find. Excellent condition
The jacket is lined in a fine silk in the same colour as the exterior tan and the skirt is interlined in a white silk organza. The jacket closes with the bottom button only and a hidden snap above that as described above. The skirt closes with hook & eye at the waist and hidden snaps below that. Completely done by hand to Haute Couture Standards. Proper numbered couture label in place on the jacket. There are some natural, variations and lines in the silk that is inherent to this type of fabric and should not be considered a flaw. It is in remarkable condition.
Jacket
Slightly dropped shoulders: 16-17"
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bottom hem: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24.5" from neck to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 27" from waist to hem with 2" turned under the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4484
Reference Photo: Christian Dior Haute Couture Printemps-Ete 1961. Photo Emerick Bronson. Model Nicole de Lamargé.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Striking 1980s Arnold Scaasi Couture Black Silk Strapless Dress w Pink Lined Half Bow & Shawl
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Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. The dress is from his main label and these were extremely well made pieces. It is so dramatic and in being so also so very Scaasi. He himself once said 'I am not a minimalist designer! Clothes with some adornment are more interesting to look at and more fun to wear.'
You can easily see the influence of Arnold having worked for Charles James in this piece. The lines are dramatic and yet elegant. The silk is that incredibly rich feeling silk that drapes and sits beautifully. The dress is strapless and is gathered from there to the waist. The gathers are all held in place along the side and this brings in the cut so that it follows and highlights your curves. The skirt is set under that and it is done with an asymmetrical cut so that one side of the skirt is linger them the other. This was a signature cut for Scaasi and a detail you see in many of his pieces. The skirt is quite full and the shape and volume that you see is all created by the way the seams are done and the inner construction of the dress. The innermost layer closest to you goes to just past the hips and it is made out of a fine black silk. A layer of tulle sits between that and the outer skirt and this is how the shape is created. The outermost layers sits over all of that and even that top layer is self-lined in a black silk organza. The final perfect touch is that extraordinary half bow that is set along the one side of the bodice. This is lined in a brilliant pink for an unexpected pop of colour. I have placed it to one side but the dress is so well made that you could wear it almost anyway around and just change where the zipper sits and the back or sides. I think you might even be able to wear it with your arm slipped through and if you really wanted to create more drama you could add some wire inside to ensure it stays high and full no matter how you move as it may flop down when moving as out is now. This one also comes with its original high shawl that is black on one side and that same brilliant pink on the other. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a fine black tissue silk. The bodice is lightly boned and it closes with a side set zipper. The inner skirt construction is described above. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 10" from top of bodice to natural waist
Skirt: 24" from natural waist seam to shortest point of the hem and 52" to the longest part of the hem with 4" turned under
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4477
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Extraordinary Fall 2008 Alexander McQueen 'The Girl Who Lived in the Trees' Silk Chiffon Trained Dress
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McQueen's Fall 2008 collection was called 'The Girl Who Lived in a Tree' and it was inspired by a combination of his trip to India and a 600 year old elm in his garden. I have included two photos from the runway that year and you can see how the elements from these pieces were combined to create this dress. The V&A Museum says of this collection: 'McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2008 collection centered on a fairy tale narrative devised by McQueen about a girl who descends from a tree to marry a prince and then become a queen. It was inspired by a 600-year-old elm tree in the garden of the designer’s Sussex home. At the center of the set stood a giant tree swathed in fabric, inspired by Bulgarian artist Christo, who is renowned for wrapping buildings with material.' This dress feels a bit like the embodiment of that centre piece they refer to above as you are wrapped and swathed in fabric once it is on. The way that the chiffon trails behind you is fantastic once on the body. This is an extraordinary example of his work.
This dress is beautiful and rarely does one see this level of workmanship in ready to wear. The fabric is a silk chiffon with a soft almost waffle finish texture to the silk. It is feather light and once the dress in on it is magical. The cut is classic McQueen with a low cut squared off neckline at the front. Underneath the bodice where a seam would normally be there is a barely visible line of hand placed stitches. This tiny little detail adds the perfect suggestion of shape and gives the bodice its empire cut. The silk has been lightly gathered over the bust with the inside structured and supported. The inner support has been done with couture level seam work and the way the fabric is placed and shaped rather than extensive boning. It is genius. The skirt falls to the floor from beneath the bodice and there are yards and yards of silk used to create the skirt and train. Just under the bust on one side the silk extends out into a panel that drapes down the full length of the dress and then loops back up and around to attach to the top of the opposite shoulder. The effect this creates is fantastic and adds extra dimension to the dress. The skirts scoops up to floor length at the front so that you can walk and then starts to extend out at the sides to become the train that wafts out behind you at the back. The back skirts drop out from the upper seam of the back which creates a fantastic caped feel. As you walk this billows out behind you and it is extraordinary. This is a work of art from one of the greatest designers of our time. The dress has its original hang tags in place and is in its original uncut length. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in black silk satin through the bust and black silk chiffon through the skirt. It closes with a hidden set zipper at the back. The interior bust is shaped and lightly boned at the sides. Original tags attached. Tagged a McQueen 38.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under bust: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist-hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from shoulder to seam under bust
Length: approx 60" from shoulder to shortest point of the front hem, approx 90" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD3473
Reference Photos: (1-2) F/W 2008 Alexander McQueen Runway Collection (Look 7 & Look 27).
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Louis Mies
1970s Louis Mies Haute Couture Off Shoulder Silk Taffeta Dress w Hand Made Lace Detailing
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This dress comes to me from my same client whose aunt purchased from both the couture houses and Ady Couture while she was living in Switzerland during the eighties and into the nineties. Prior to that, during the late sixties and into the early 80s her aunt lived in both France and Brussels where she purchased pieces from Louis Mies along with the couture houses. Mies was a small independent couturier who did custom work for his clients to haute couture standards. He designed many pieces for the Queen of Belgium and like Ady, he had permission from several of the Haute Couture ateliers to produce their Haute Couture pieces and bought the fabric directly from them. I have some new information that he might have sold actual couture pieces through his salon as well. This dress bears a striking similarity to some of the 1977 Valentino couture collection pieces and I have included some of those iconic photographs here and if nothing else to show you how this dress will look on an actual body. It is absolutely unbelievable in person and one of my favourite personal pieces from her estate so far.
The level that this dress is made to is incredible. The fabric is a fine black silk taffeta and then parts of the design are edged in a beautiful French Chantilly lace. There are yards and yards of fabric used in the construction of this piece but once on the body it is all perfectly balanced. It sits off the shoulder to leave a bare expanse of skin showing that balances the volume of the dress below. I love the cut of the top. There is a six inch caped ruffle that wraps all the way around your shoulders and is edged with a 3.5" band of lace. Under that are extra extra wide sleeves. The width of the inner sleeves give the illusion of a layered caped detailing but they are actually true sleeves. Each sleeve is edged in that same lace to give the bodice a tiered effect from the side. The bodice is cut to skim over the body and then the waist is seamed to nip in for shape. I added a grosgrain ribbon to define the waist even more and this will be included. The skirt curves out from there and falls to the floor widening out to be very full as it nears the hem. The skirt is made up of three layers. The innermost layer is a full built-in black silk under-skirt that has wide bands of stiffened netting at the hem and then again part way up the skirt. These bands help to hold the volume. There are these little ruffled details that run along the seams where this inner layer is pieced together despite the fact that no one would ever see them. I love that. The second layer over that is made of black silk taffeta and it has two ruffled tiers at the hem that are both edged with black lace. The final top layer sits over both these and it curves up at the front to meet the seam at the waist. It is stunning. The dress is completely made by hand and I have included a couple of shots of one of the inner seams for you to see the amazing handwork. Excellent condition with a note below
Fully lined through the bodice in a black silk and the skirt is constructed as described above. It closes with a painted metal zipper at the back. Made by hand to couture standards. There are a couple small repairs / tiny holes on the ruffle on the neckline. There is so much fabric they get lost in the folds. Please see the final shot after the label. It otherwise looks unworn
Bust: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15" from top of natural shoulder to waist
Skirt: 43" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3882
Reference photos: Valentino campaign 1977 shot by Deborah Turbeville
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
romeo gigli
Important 1990 Romeo Gigli One Off Haute Coutre Full Wedding Dress Set w Flower Filled Chiffon Coat & Accessories
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Every so often I am contacted by someone and entrusted with something very special and this wedding set by Romeo Gigli absolutely fits that bill. This incredible set is a one of a kind, Haute Couture made to measure piece that comes directly from its original owner and she has graciously given all of the original documentation on it to share with you along with a full write up on her experience with Romeo and a scan of the Elle article that was written a year after her wedding.
Romeo Gigli launched his label first in 1981 which failed. In 1983 he partnered with Carla Sozzani and in 1985 he presented a 25 piece collection in Milan. By 1986 he was an international sensation and his collections made world wide headlines. In 1989 he had his Paris debut. His work was romantic but dramatic. Hallmarks included shawl coats, which this set so perfectly displays, along with soft sloping shoulders and silhouettes that narrow as they come down the body. Historical references run through his work and his de-structured lines felt fresh and new.
This set has all of the original pieces that Marion wore on her wedding day and even includes the original boxes and silk bags that the set was delivered in. Every piece was made in studio by hand and when I tell you that my photos do not do the full set justice I have never been more honest as everything is more beautiful in person. This is a once in a life time opportunity to own this incredible and important piece of fashion history. The link to Marion's story is below and a short description of the pieces follows.
The wedding ensemble consists of a pale pink silk chiffon top, a gold lace hobble skirt and a deep gold silk jacket or top that was worn over those two pieces. An incredible silk chiffon coat that is filled with silk flowers and flows behind you in a knotted train was worn over that. The original pale taupe velvet shoes in their original box are present along with the hand made hair sticks and pins. The two original pink raw silk hand made bags that the skirt and tops were delivered in are included and the entire ensemble comes in its original raw silk covered box. The final piece included is the little hand held green silk bag that Marion carried that day.
The skirt and inner top are the base of the outfit. The top is slightly cropped and made from a pale dusty peach pink silk chiffon. The chiffon has been hand gathered into soft pleats and crosses itself over the front and back. It wraps around you and closes on one side, inside, with a series of silk covered buttons and then the other side wraps over that and closes at the back outside with buttons as well. The skirt is made out of fine gold lace and is banded around the waist for shape. It drapes softly over the body with volume through the hips created by the layers. It narrows down at the ankles for a touch of a hobble skirt in appearance with the ends curving up and under. It is an incredible design.
An oversized silk top goes over this that has a bit of volume through the body. It is made from a deep copper gold silk with a burnished finish. The sleeves are incredibly long and are meant to be gather along the arms and follow the cut and curve of them. The collar is very high and wired so that it stands and frames the face beautifully. One side is longer then the other and you can shape the wire to give it a quirky little curve in the direction and way that works best for you. I love the open cut out just under the collar. It hints at the silk chiffon top underneath and adds an unexpected flash of skin.
The coat is utterly remarkable. It is thoroughly Romeo Gigli in spirit and it is one of the most beautiful, magical things I have ever seen. It has those beautiful sloped shoulders he was known for and the front flips over into a deep shawl collar. It slips on over everything else with no front closures. It just falls over you in this exceptional drape of chiffon and flowers and then trails out behind you. The end has been knotted and I love this detail as it is absolutely Gigli at his best. The coat is made from a silk chiffon outer and inner layer that has a touch of transparency to it while inside and between the layers are thousands of silk flowers. Each would have been placed by hand one by one to form a solid layer of flowers that shows through the silk. It has weight yet it feels weightless. It has presence yet it feels ethereal. The top layer of the chiffon is a pale dusty pink and then the inner layer is a pale taupe. The flowers float between the two and it make this light rustling sound as it moves that it magical. It is one of the best things I have ever personally seen.
Finally are the accessories. Her original velvet shoes that slide on and then tie in place, the little green silk bag that is held by the tied straps and the various hand made hair and stick pins in their original box.
The entire set will be sent in it original box hand covered in a deep dusty pink raw silk as it came to Marion from the Gigli ateliers.
Everything is in superb condition. I see a teeny smudge of discoloration under the arms of the inner silk chiffon top and the wear to the soles of the shoes giving away the clue that it was worn that day. The silk on the large box it came in has more wear as seen in the photos
This is a once in a life time, absolutely remarkable piece of fashion history.
Inner top
Shoulders: no true seams
Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 14" from top of shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from waist to hem and including the 4" waist band
Outer top
Sleeves: 39" from the dropped shoulder seam and are around 11" arond after the dropped shoulder
Shoulders: 27" across and meant to drop significantly
Bust: 30" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 27" flat across from side seam to side seam and narrows to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam by the hem
Length: 41" from neck hem
Neck: 13" around
Coat
Is about 36" flat across the inner bust and it is about 120" long from the neck to end past the knot and not including the deep shawl collar. It is pretty much OSFA
Bag
Approx 9.5" tall and about 5-7" in diameter
Shoes
Approx a 40-41
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED for the inner outfit and the coat is OSFA
Item# DD4458
Reference Photos: Courtesy of Marion Hume. (1-2) Fitting with Romeo Gigli. / (3-7) On the wedding day.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Fall 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Silk Runway Backless Dress w Original Jewel Brooches
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The twin of this dress in a different colour walked the Fall 1990 runway and we have included the reference photos of that so that you can see just how fabulous this one is on the body. This dress also included the incredible and detailed brooches on both the front and back of the dress as it was presented on the runway. This dress is unlabeled but came to me directly from the original couture client from whom I have, and have had, several other Haute Couture pieces. She was fitted by Christian himself for the dress which makes it that much more special. It is a stunning example of his Haite Couture work during this time period.
The dress is made out of an iridescent silk taffeta that has a slight colour change to it depending on how the light hits it. It can go from a deep bronze to a more iridescent blue / purple tone. I love it. The sleeves are long and there is a row of five silk covered buttons at each wrist. The body of the dress is cut to skim over you. It is gathered at one side at the front with the first of two incredible jeweled brooches the dress came with. The brooch is hand made from a gold toned metal with large golden topaz glass crystals mixed with brilliant blue crystals. The neckline angles down and across your shoulder to leave one shoulder bare and exposed. At the back the neckline dips dramatically down into a deep open V that leaves your skin bare and exposed. The second huge jeweled brooch sits at the base of that. A panel of silk flares out dramatically to one side to create a half bow, half bustle feel. The interior of that panel has extra structure so that it stays perfectly in place. The skirt falls below that and depending in your height will sit at about the knee or just above. It is fabulous. Excellent condition with minor notes below
Fully lined in a black silk organza and closes with an elaborate mix of a zipper, snaps and hooks at the back. One panel loops through the other over that. There is fused strip of rubber ribbon along the inner neckline to hold it in place and this has degraded a touch here and there. One stone is missing at the bottom of the front brooch. The brooches are tacked into place at present but are removable and you can see little marks on the fabric under them where the pin has been pushed through in different places. There are a couple teeny pinhead snags on the fabric where the brooches have caught on the silk near the brooches. These are all very minor and mentioned for accuracy. Unlabeled. Sourced from the original couture client and Mr Lacroix has mentioned to me on insta that he remembers fitting her.
Sleeves: 19.5"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 36" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3602
Reference Photos: Fall/Winter 1990 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
alexander mcqueen
Beautiful 2007 Alexander McQueen Purple Bias Cut Liquid Silk Satin Dress w Amazing Sleeves
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This is an incredible dress. This was a dress produced for the shops and it is especially interesting because it is a dress that was produced again in 2011 and re-issued in an ivory for the wedding collection that year. I know this because I have that dress listed in the shop now and you can see it here. You will recall that I recently had a lace dress in that was also made under the same circumstances where a original dress done by Lee was re-issued at a later date for a wedding collection. I love having the original and as far as I am aware it was only produced in black and this purple in 2007. It has that same bias cut draped feel as the McQueen that Elle Fanning borrowed and wore recently so that will give you an idea of it on
This is a stunningly beautiful dress. It is one that will come to life even more once it is on an actual body and will only truly come to life when worn. It is a dress that definitely takes inspiration from the bias cut couture pieces of the 20s and 30s. McQueen was a master tailor and the seam work and simplicity of this dress do not hide that fact. It is made from a beautifully weighted purple silk satin that has a slight texture running through it. It has that same liquid feel that the best of the 1930s pieces did that were made from this similar fabrics. Like those dresses of the thirties this is also cut on the bias but with a more shaped silhouette. I love that the fabric is heavy enough and that the dress is lined so that it will not highlight 'flaws' underneath like some bias cut pieces can. It is cut to flow over the body and skims over the bust, waist and hips to the floor. The neckline drops into a V at the front for a bit of skin to show. It glides over the bust and there is this interesting softly curved seam that starts at the bust and runs down into the side seam. This not only helps to add a little shape but it also becomes this interesting design feature and a subtle way for him to work in one of his signature angled seams. The skirt continues past and over the hips and then flares out as it reaches the hem. At the back there is extra fabric worked around the center seam to give you a trained effect behind you. This flaring out at the bottom and the extra bit at the back give you fabulous movement when you walk or move. It also adds to the hourglass shape the dress has. The sleeves are incredible. They are set in these soft loops around each arm. They leave the sides of the shoulders bare and really add to the thirties feel of the dress. They are spectacular. It is in its original uncut length. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a purple silk satin and closes with a hidden set back zipper. Tagged a McQueen 40. The bias cut fabric does have some stretch. The measurements below give you the comfortable range the fabric has when lying flat. It is in its original supermodel length. The bias cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. I see perhaps a touch of grubbiness and scuffing near the hem bit it is very minor and mentioned for accuracy only.
Waist: to 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to front hem, 72" the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4461
Reference Photo: Elle Fanning in Spring 2008 Alexander McQueen, from our archives, at the Critics Choice After Party, January 2023.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Ady Couture
Fall 1987 Ady Couture Lausanne for Givenchy Iridescent Purple Metallic Dress w Velvet Bow
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This dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway. This dress is from the Fall 1987 Haute Couture collection. Several variations of this dress where produced and we have included reference photos where you can see the strapless version from the runway. And a shorter version of this dress was also shown on the runway and one was worn by Audrey Hepburn as well.
The dress is made from the most incredible iridescent metallic fabric. It is purple first and foremost but when the light hits here it gets a highlight of a hint of the green that is just amazing to see. The fabric has enough weight to it to hold the shape that you see. The neckline is scooped and the sleeves are set into the shoulders so that you get a bit of a peak where they are gathered into the bodice. They are cut wider near the top of your arm and then taper down to the wrist. The bodice skims over you to the slightly dropped waist seam. Around the hip area is a wide band of gathered fabric that creates that incredible volume. A black velvet bow sits the front. The skirt is cut on a sharp angle that widens out to be quite full as it nears the floor. The cut is meant to feel sculptural and contrast the volume around the hips. The back of the skirt is fuller and set a little longer then the front. One version on the runway was belted and you could easily add a belt to add shape. The interior of the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every single seam done by hand. It is beautifully made and appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black silk and closes with a hidden set zipper at the back and there are hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards
Sleeves: 26"
Shoulders: 16"
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54.5" from top of shoulder to front hem, 58" to the longest part of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD3808
Reference Photos: (1) A/W 1987 Givenchy Haute Couture Silver metallic lame brocade strapless gown dress with a black velvet chest and bow and 2-layer puffy skirt. L'Officiel No. 734, September 1987. / (2-4) Fall 1987 Givenchy Haute Couture Runway. / (5) Audrey Hepburn, in Givenchy, at the Sheraton Hotel in New York City for the 17th Annual International Emmy Awards in 1989.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chloe
Incredible Fall 2001 Chloe by Stella McCartney Faux Fur Runway Look 1 Coat w Bead & Crsytal Detail
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The Stella McCartney era at Chloe has since become extremely collectible. The fall 2001 show was fantastic. This was the opening look for the show and in Vogue's review they specifically mentioned the faux coats that were treated so glamorously with added details saying; "Stella McCartney continued with her exploration of grown-up, couture-inspired silhouettes for Chloé, without forgetting about the youthful, fun-loving basics that are the label's bread and butter. McCartney's forte is her ability to glam up casual street clothes. Her fitted jeans and corduroy trousers with zipper pockets, face-stenciled T-shirts and pearl-encrusted draped tops all had an air of insouciant cool to them; so did the faux furs with shaved bits that accommodated clusters of silver flowers." This was one of the strongest looks from the show and a true piece of fashion history.
The twin of this coat was the opening runway look and was worn by Angela Lindvall. The show had several piece sin this faux fur but this coat is the hardest to find. You will often see the shorter version that was made of this coat or the shrugs or collars but the actual coat is very rare. These had a pretty hefty price tag and not as many were made. They were only sent to certain stores and were a limited production piece. The coat is a 3/4 length and is made from a thick and soft faux fur. The cut is loose and easy and it widens out as it nears the hem for a bit of a swing coat feel. It has hidden fur hooks to close the top part of the front and then swings open under that. There's a hook at the top of the collar so you can wear it folded down like how I photoed it for these photos to give it a more loose and easy feel or you can close that top hook so that it wraps around the neck like how it was worn on the runway. The sleeves are cut extra long and they are gathered along the inside of the wrist. This gives them a curve so that they follow the curve of the arm and it also lets you wear them up a bit so they get that bit of a gathered slouchy feel you see in the runway pics. The inside is lined in a men's wear shooting fabric that she often used. There are two zippered pockets in the interior that have little chains attached to the zipper pulls. On the exterior there is a pocket hidden along each hip. It is meant to feel a little big and slouchy once on and I love that. The best part about is of course that extraordinary detailing done on the shoulder and collar on the one side of the coat. Fine silver metal strips have been applied to the coat to create a series of medallions. Swirling beads and sequins sit over those to create this fantastic design that goes across the top of the arm. under the shoulder at the front and then runs up and into the collar and around to the back. Its just brilliant and an amazing piece of fashion history. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition.
Fully lined with two interior pockets as described above. It closes with hidden fur hooks at the front. Pockets on each hip. Tagged a vintage Chloe 40
Sleeves: 28"
Shoulders: 16.5"
Bust: 18-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 24" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 47" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4454
Reference Photos: Fall 2001 Chloe Runway, Look 1. Model Angela Lindvall.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
james galanos
1970s Galanos Couture Custom Made Silk Chiffon Pant w Metallic Lace Detailed Dress Set
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James Galanos launched Galanos Originals in 1951. He was only 27 years old. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. When you covert to modern dollars the top end figure would be about $31,000 today. His ready-to-wear was made to couture standards and on par with the French couturiers of the time. Grace Kelly was a huge fan and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites and this set is an exquisite and very special example of his work.
This set was custom made for, and is from the estate of, 1950s model Betsy Pickering Kaiser. Betsy appeared on several Vogue covers in the 1950s and it was during that time period time period that she met Galanos. They were friends for over 60 years. She collected and wore Galanos pieces her entire life and was his friend and muse. He once told her husband ‘I would rather have Betsy wear my clothes than any other woman’. She was a constant presence on the International Best Dressed List and and was added to the Best Dressed Hall of Fame in the early 1970s.
This is gorgeous. It is made from a beautiful printed light weight silk chiffon that is combined with a red lace that has a metallic finish. The entire set combined weighs ounces. Huge flowers cover the entire surface of the silk chiffon. The pants are made from two layers of the chiffon and they are cut long and wide. An elastic waist makes them very easy and comfortable to wear. You then slip on that long piece over the pants. It is also constructed from two layers of silk that fall from under the lace bodice. Each side is slit open right up to the lace top. This gives the top piece a ton of movement and creates this fabulous floating effect around you when you walk. The bodice part is made of two panels of a metallic red lace that is connected along each side with a bit of a angled plunge above where they connect. The lace has that fantastic metallic finish to it for contrast against the pattern in the silk chiffon. The bodice has an inner nude silk lining so that from a distance you look like you are wearing nothing underneath it. The top is suspended by four tiny silk straps that curve over the shoulders. This set is tremendously good in person and it really needs an actual body to come to life. Cut supermodel long in length. Excellent condition
The pants are made of two layers of silk chiffon and close with a back zipper and elastic through the waist. The outer layer is lined with a nude silk chiffon through the bodice and the skirt is made from two layers of the silk. The outer layer closes at the side with hidden fabric covered snaps. There are a couple of very minor repairs and light snags near the hem of the overlay. This is a one-off, unlabelled custom piece made for Betsy and came from her estate.
Over dress
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 62" from shoulder to hem
Pants
Elastic waist: 15-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Pant: 45" from waist to hem
Inseam: 32" from inner seam to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD2278
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
hanae mori
Dreamy c. 1969 Hanae Mori Couture Printed Silk Chiffon Jumpsuit w Floor Length Angel Sleeves
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Hanae was the first woman of Japanese descent to have presented on the Paris and New York runways and the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official Haute Couture house to La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Her work is exceptional. Hanae Mori excelled at these beautiful prints that combined nature and elements of her homeland. This is a stunning jumpsuit and when I find pieces like this one that is such a stunningly beautify example of her work I am very happy. I feel that pieces like this are among the very best representations of her work. We added a photo of a similar piece with the same cut but in a jersey and different print that gives you an idea of how this is on the body.
This is everything you look for in a piece by Hanae Mori. The entire piece has one of her custom designed prints screened onto a feather light silk chiffon. Think the finest silk scarf you could have in terms of weight and feel. It has all been printed with a really outstanding huge floral design and the colours are fantastic. That combination of turquoise and pink cannot be beat. The jumpsuit has a shallow V neck at both the back and front for just a little bit of skin to show there. The top skims over you and has one of the big pink flowers at the front. The waist is generous in cut the jumpsuit comes with its original silk ribbon belt. This belt is made from multiple pieces of silk piece together in rows and then the ends are all left as individual ribbons. When you tie this around your waist it helps to add to the drama of the overall set . The pants fall from under that and are cut to be very very wide and full so you get this incredible movement when you move. To make them opaque enough to wear each pant leg has an inner layer of silk twill with that same print on that inner layer. As with the best of Hanae's pieces the effect of having the same print on the top layer and the inner layer gives the design added dimension and depth as they float over each other. The added width of the pant also let them float and move at your slightest movement. The sleeves on this piece are spectacular. They are attached around the upper two thirds of the arm hole and each is made from two panels of fabric that float all the way down the length of the jumpsuit to just a little past the hem. They are open on each side so move independently from each other. Because each panel is a single layer of that bias cut silk chiffon this means that they catch the slightest bit of air and move and float dramatically around you. The beauty and drama that this creates is astonishing. The floral print that covers the jumpsuit is one of her best. The movement and beauty of this piece is extraordinary. This is a piece that you slip on and feel completely comfortable when wearing it and yet it has as much drama and impact as you could ask for. It is a stunning example of her work and beautifully made. I love it. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the bodice in a white silk and a printed silk twill for the pants. The sleeves are unlined. It zips to close at the back. The belt ties into place. All of the edges have been hand rolled and it is hand finished through out. Tagged a vintage 10. It appears to have been worn very little if at all
Bust: 17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16" from top of bodice to waist
Pants: 38.5" from waist to hem
Inseam: 25" from the inner seam to hem
Gusset: 32" from back of neck to inner seam
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4451
Reference Photos: Hanae Mori Ad in Vogue US, October 1, 1969.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Pre-Fall 2011 Christian Dior by John Galliano Lookbook Mini Dress w Plunge Front & No Back
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The twin of this Dior dress was Look 5 in the Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2011 collection. This collection was shot as a look book that year. At the time Dior said this of John's collection: ”Dior’s Fall ready-to-wear collection takes its inspiration from the legendary love affair between Mrs. Wallis Simpson and Edward VIII. English romanticism is channeled into Balmoral fringed tweeds and candy-coloured tartans with Prince of Wales checks. Ultimate luxury and expertise create evening glamour in elegant draped gowns and head to toe sequins to ensure that every head is turned.” Vogue commented that: "John Galliano galloped the Duchess of Windsor through This Is Your Life, with richly hued musings on what Wallis Simpson in her prime might've worn at specific times of day and across the decades." The Dior team styled the pieces in lavish settings to play on this theme. I think that this was one of the best pieces of the collection and I love having the photo reference so that you can see it on a body. This was John's second last collection for the house.
The dress is a play on a flapper dress with a soft oversized check pattern softened with more pastel coloured version of red and blue. It is printed on a silk chiffon to further soften the feel of the print and give it a bit of a vintage feel. The dress can be worn longer and more straight on the body or you can hike it up to be super short and have the top blouse over as I have done in most of these shots. The front plunges to the waist and then crossed over itself at the base where it meets the seam. It can also be worn long with the seam and the hips and I also shot it that way from the front, side and back. It ties behind the neck and the ties trail down your back. The back is completely bare and it is scooped open right to the waist. A band of the silk chiffon wraps around you at the top of the hips and this is what you use to hold the dress higher or lower on you. The skirt falls under that to the hem and the lightness of the fabric gives it tons of movement. His signature tightly spaced silk covered buttons run down one side of the dress and there is a little bow at the top of the skirt on each hip. These little details are always what makes a Galliano designed piece that much more special. The final detail is the green and red lace that edges the dress. The lace has been stiffened and has deliberate raw edges to further play on that feel of the dress being a piece from the past. It is laid out over a band of ivory velvet and this last little touch ties everything perfectly together. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition with a minor note below
Fully lined in a fine pink-salmon coloured silk. It closes with the buttons down the side and ties around the back of the neck. At some point someone added a snap under the front where it crosses to make it a little more secure. I have left it but it could easily be removed if you wished. I see a bit of residue on the lining on one side of the bust where a double sided tape was used to hold it in place. Tagged a Dior F 36, GB 8, IT 40, US 4. Note that this was very difficult to measure and depending on where you want the band to sit it should fit a range of sizes
Bust: no true side seam and each halter will easily cover a full range of cup sizes
Waist/top of hip at seam: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam and expanding to 17.5 at the bottom seam of the band
Bodice: to approx 21" from top of bodice to top seam of the waist/top of hip
Band: 4"
Skirt: 14" from waist to longest points of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4036
Reference Photo: Pre-Fall 2011 Christian Dior, Look 5. Model: Alina Baikova.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
oscar de la renta
Romantic 1980s Oscar de la Renta Backless Black Silk & Lace Dress w Killer Pouf Sleeves
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Oscar was known for his beautiful and feminine designs and this dress really showcases that. With our modern day obsession with all things eighties and nineties this play on proportions and fabrics still feels extremely of this moment fashion wise. Oscar had an amazing sense of aesthetics and his genius was in making women look and feel beautiful. This is the type of dress you can easily imagine in an editorial of the day on one of the reigning supermodels. It is just gorgeous
There are actually three fabric used in the making of this dress. The sleeves are a perfectly light in weight silk taffeta, the bodice is a black lace and then the skirt is a fine soft black silk with a very fine thin ribbing. The play on those three fabrics together is very romantic feeling. The neckline is scooped low and set wide across the shoulders at the front. At the back it has an even lower scoop out so that you get this great expanse of bare skin there. The sleeves are spectacular. They have built in tulle to help hold their volume and they are cut to be extremely full so that they billow out to just about the elbow. They have elastic running through the edges nearest to the shoulders and you can wear them up and on the shoulder like I have shot them here or I think you can also let them cascade down to leave each shoulder bare. The bodice is covered ion the black lace all the way around and I love the little lace peplum that circles the waist and balances out those sleeves. The skirt fall from under there in a beautiful curve to the floor. The skirt is finished in a fine stripe that I love. Inside the interior of the skirt there is an additional underskirt of silk organza that has a wide ruffled bottom that helps to hold the shape of the outer skirt. When you move the skirt shows it volume and movement beautifully. Excellent condition
The bodice is lined in a black chiffon, The skirt in a black organza and the sleeves have tulle inside them to hold the shape. It closes with a back zipper. Tagged a vintage ODLR 6
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: approx 17" from natural shoulder to slightly dropped seam under natural waist
Skirt: 44" from slightly dropped seam under natural waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4444
Reference Photo: 1982 Oscar de la Renta.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Fall 1979 Yves Saint Laurent Unlabled Haute Couture Black Silk Dress w Sequin & Rhinestone Detailing
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This is an incredible Haute Couture dress that came to me from the niece of the original couture client and is unlabeled. In our hunt for more information on it we found the runway photos from the 1979 Yves Saint Laurent dress and you instantly see that it is its twin in all ways except for the length. It is always the prerogative of the couture client to change some elements of the dress to suit their needs and in this case, this woman attended many functions where a full length dress was required. She frequented the Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro ateliers. She often removed the labels to avoid customs and it is fantastic to be able to verify which designer and collection this one is from as many of the records she kept were lost. The dress is completely made by hand to Haute Couture standards and it is incredible. I love having the runway photos so that you can see just how amazing it is in the body.
The dress is made from a crisp black silk and this fabric choice allows it to hold those beautiful lines that you see. It's beautiful shape is a testament to the level of workmanship that you only see in true couture pieces. At the front the neckline dips into a V and the dress is vertically seamed to follow the curves of the body. The sleeves are amazing. Each is cut on a curve to follow the shape of the arm in the traditional manner of making a sleeve. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume at the shoulder. They puff out slightly around the upper arm and then narrow down at their ends. At the back the dress scoops low to give you a bare expanse of skin. The back has a low set seam under the open scoop and this allows the top of the back skirt to lift slightly off and away from the body. A tiny detail that feels very sensual on the body. That same seam curves around the hips and angles up towards the waist at the front and then the skirt at the front is cut on a stunning curve that widens out as it reaches the hem. The back is fuller and it also falls a touch longer to give it the feel of it sweeping out behind you. Built in underneath the skirt is a ruffled black silk net underskirt and when you move or sit you see just a peek of the ruffle around the inner hem. Built inside the top of the inner skirt are layers of silk net that help to hold the fullness around the hips. The dress is detailed with hand applied sequins to form little varying sized circles that run over the entire bodice, the waist and the top part of the skirt. Two types of sequins have been used, tiny silver sequins one and others that are an iridescent pale blue. The blue ones catch the light and range in colour from silver to an ice blue. It is incredible. Mixed into that are some circles that are made from little glass crystal beads. All are hand applied and the entire dress is completely hand made to couture standards. I have taken some detail shots of the interior seams for you to see the fine Haute Couture workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and just beautifully made. Excellent condition with a small note below
The bodice is unlined and the skirt is fully lined with a built in underskirt in a black silk net and taffeta. Built in panniers around the hip area that I have photoed. It closes with a hand set back zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over that. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. There is the occasional sequin or crystal missing on the dots here and there and I have photoed one area for you to see as an example. Please see the last detail photo for that. Unlabeled. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction.
Sleeves: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to front hem, 60" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3677
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Ady Couture
1982 Ady for Givenchy Haute Couture Gold Silk Taffeta Dress w Hand Done Sequin Detailing
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This is an incredible Haute Couture dress that came to me from the niece of the original couture client, In our hunt for more information on it we found the runway photos from the 1982 Givenchy Haute Couture presentations and you instantly see that it is its twin in all ways. I love having the runway photos so that you can see just how amazing it is in the body. This dress was made by hand in the atelier of Ady Couture who was based in Lausanne Switzerland. Ady herself was a couture trained seamstress and headed a team who had full permission of the Haute Couture houses she worked with to make the designs they showed in Paris for clients based in Switzerland and the surrounding areas. She would purchase the couture fabrics from the couture houses along with the patterns and then make the actual dresses in her atelier. This arrangement with the couture houses was a way to work around customs during this time period and do fittings for clients unable to travel to Paris. So far we have verified that she had this arrangement with Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Ungaro. There may have been others but those are the four labels we have documentation on from the runway.
The dress is made from a deep copper gold silk taffeta and this fabric choice allows it to hold those stunning lines and volume that you see. It is absolutely beautiful and a testament to the level of design that you only see in couture pieces. The colour of the silk is even better in person. I have managed to almost capture it in these photos but in person it is even richer feeling then what you see here. At the front the neckline is set in a simple high scoop. The bodice is cut to skim over your curves and is simple in cut. The sleeves are incredible. Each one is set on a curve to follow the shape of the arm in the traditional manner of dressmaking. They are set into the shoulders with a beautiful series of soft pleats so that you get a bit of volume at the shoulder. They puff out slightly around the upper arm and then narrow down at their ends. The waist is seamed and the skirt is gathered all the way around the waist in a series of soft pleats. These puff out from the waist slightly and this little couture trick gives the illusion that the waist is smaller then it is. On the runway it was shown with a black velvet bow and I have added one to emulate that same look. The skirt is one of the best skirts I have seen both from a design point of view and by its level of construction. It is made into two attached sections. The top comes out from the pleats all around the waist and it poufs out around you. A seam brings the skirt in and then the lower part of the skirt falls to the floor from there. That second tier has many yards of silk in it so that it flares out as it reached the hem. Between the two sections is a wide velvet ribbon that wraps around the seam and ties into a bow at the side. Which beautifully picks up on the bow around the waist. All of the volume and shape that you see is created through the way it is cut and the fabric choice. The skirt does not have extensive underskirts to shape it. The silk of the skirts are lined in a silk organza to help give support but it is really the genius of the cut itself that creates the shape. An elaborate and intricate floral design runs across the front and back of the bodice and down each sleeve. Hand done embroidery work is combined with tiny black sequins and hand applied beads. It is some of the finest hand work I have seen. Inside the dress is completely finished to couture standards with every seam finished by hand. I have taken some detail shots for you to see the fine workmanship inside. It is an incredible piece and absolutely beautifully made. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
The bodice is fully lined in a matching gold toned silk and the skirt is fully lined with a slightly gold tinged silk organza. It closes with a hand placed back zipper and the skirt snaps into place with silk covered snaps over that. Hidden set zippers at each wrist. Hand finished throughout. The velvet ribbon out is not original to the piece but will be included. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Made to Haute Couture standards with a tremendous amount of detail put into its construction. It is a slightly softer gold copper in person then how it photoed.
Sleeves: 26"
Slightly inset shoulders: 13.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 15.5" from shoulder to waist
Length: 42" from waist to front hem, 45" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3685
Reference Photos: Fall 1982 Givenchy Couture Runway.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
yves saint laurent
Exceptional Spring 1991 Yves Saint Laurent Runway Vivid Printed One Shoulder Cotton Dress
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This dress is just exceptional. Its twin walked the runway that season and we found the barest second of it on the runway as the model walked back down the catwalk. We have included that little bit of film along with a couple of stills taken from the clip for you to see. They are not the best photos ever but we were still very happy to have confirmation that the twin of this one was indeed a runway piece. We also included an editorial shot from Marie Claire that season that shows a different piece from the show in the same fabric. This fabric in a variety of different colour ways was integral to the show and there was a an entire section of the show devoted to them. The dress is gorgeous and its so very rare to find these more exceptional YSL pieces anymore.
The dress is made from a feather light cotton voile that that has enough weight and structure to it to perfectly fall into the line that Yves desired it to have. The fabric has just a touch of transparency to it but at the same time the print and the way it wraps around you covers everything and perfectly the transparency feels like more of a suggestion of sensuality. I love the bold use of all those brilliant colors that covers the entire dress. The print is a stunning abstract and it is just a piece of art in itself. There is a soft strap that curves over one shoulder on an angle from the other side. Inside the bust there is a soft bodice piece built in that has a bit of boning for shape. This zips and hooks into place to hold the dress in place on you. The outer where is gathered in under the strap and then it falls over you to the floor. Part of the fabric at the waist wraps around and snaps in the place and this gives just a suggestion of shape there. The shape is soft as it falls over you and meant to have a bit if a sarong feel. It is cut to skim over the body loose and easy with the only fitted place being that inner built in bodice. The skirt wraps over itself and part of it is longer then the other. This does two things. First, when you walk or sit that opening will open a bit to show some leg and second it allows the skirt to the air and billow around you when you walk. I love that way it drapes around you at the top. It is fantastic on the body and really showcases his genius at both print and cut. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Unlined and closes in the inner bodice with a zipper and flat hook and I as described above. The waist snaps and hooks in place. Light boning in the inner bodice. Tagged a vintage YSL 40.
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hooked waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: variable because of the wrap
Bodice: approx 15" from top of shoulder to inner hooked waist
Length: approx 50" from top of shoulder to shortest part of from hem and approx 67" to the longest point of the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4411
Reference Photos/Video: (1-4) Spring 1991 Yves Saint Laurent Runway. / (5) Yves Saint Laurent Editorial, Marie Claire, June 1991
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
1973 Loris Azzaro Couture Black Flame Sequin Detailing & Feather Light Silk Chiffon Dress
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that utilized the same jagged flame pattern and sequins against silk chiffon. This one actually looks like a sleeveless version of the one shot on Marisa Berenson. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces from.
This is a gorgeous dress. It is really one that will come to life even more once on an actual body and I hope the photos convey enough of how fabulous it is because when worn this one will be even better. The entire body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins and these catch the light from every angle. This covers you from that jagged design on the bodice down and over the hips. The sequins extend right from the flame design at the front and then are set in long vertical rows to the hem. The top of the bodice is a single layer of black silk chiffon. This bit of transparency adds an incredibly sexy feel. He used that same silk chiffon down the back where it dips into a low scoop. I love the way that the jagged flame pattern defines the bust and that low scoop at the back. A high slit up one side lets you have the perfect flash of skin when you walk or sit. It is fabulous once on an actual body. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silk and it zips to close at the back.
Bust: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 57.5" from top of shoulder to hem with 2.5" turned under
Slit: 19.5" from hem up
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-XL
Item# DD4403
Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz. / (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini. / (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years" / (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973. / (7) Spring 1973 Loris Azzaro Couture.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian lacroix
Prettiest Spring 1996 Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Runway Three Piece Set w Jewel Buttons
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The twin of this set walked the runway and was worn by none other then Carla Bruni. Which makes this suit that much more special. It also still has all three of its original pieces and I love that as well. Christian Lacroix launched his Haute Couture house in 1987 and his work was an instant worldwide sensation with the press declaring him to be the King of Couture. A ready-to-wear line soon followed along with perfumes and menswear. His collections were always exotic and lavish affairs. He drew his inspirations from across the decades and I doubt there was ever a more high glamour couturier. This suit with its supermodel tie-in is very special and a stunning example of his work during this time period. His couture pieces rarely come to market and I love having them in the shop when I can get them.
I love that this still has all three original pieces. It came to me with the jacket, skirt and the inner silk top that matches the lining of the jacket. Which is a very traditional Haute Couture detail. Having all three pieces makes it that much more versatile since you can mix and match all of pieces and wear them in so many different ways. The inner top is made of a silk with a abstract vertical wavy pattern in ivory, pale blue and pastel lavender. That exact same silk is used to line the jacket so when you wear the jacket open you get that incredible continuation of design. The skirt and the jacket are both made from a textured wool boucle with the skirt being a two-tone aqua and pale blue and the jacket picking up the lavender in the silk top. Unusual colour and pattern mixing was a forte of Lacroix and we see that beautifully in the suit. The jacket is stunning and every seam has been meticulously executed. The sleeves are long and the rounded shoulders have soft padding inside for a touch of structure. The seaming is set in curving lines to create the shape that you see and there are little boned Silk satin inserts at the front for shaping. That same silk details the inside of the collar runs across the top of the shoulder and along part of the edge of the split cuff sleeves. At the back he used that same fabric to gather and bring in the back of the jacket for shaping and add a pretty romantic detail with the bow. It snaps to close down the front with silk covered hidden set snaps. Buttons are sewn on the outside and each is a stunning jewel. Gold tone metal has been set with rhinestones crystals and turquoise. So even if you wear the jacket on its own or closed you get this stunning jewel detail there. The skirt is precisely and simply cut with that slight flare as it reaches the hem. The front panel wraps over which as a touch of detail and also leaves a hidden opening underneath so that when you sit or walk you get a tiny flash of leg. It is lined in an extremely high-quality pale blue silk. This is a stunning example of his work that will never go out of style and it is exceptional. The fact that it is true Haute Couture just makes it better and the workmanship is out of this world. Excellent condition.
Both the dress and the jacket are fully lined in silk described above. The top is made of a single layer of silk. Top closes with a hidden setbacks zipper and has ribbon finishing at the hem. The skirt closes with a side zipper and couture hook and eye at the waist. The jacket has hidden set snaps down the front. All three pieces are completely made by hand and have their proper Haute Couture tags present with sequential couture numbers under the tag.
Jacket
Sleeve: 21"
Shoulders: approx 15"
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 19" from neck to back hem, 22" the longest points of the front hem
Top
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from shoulder to hem
Skirt
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 21" from waist to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4391
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 1996 Christian Lacroix Runway, Look 4. Model Carla Bruni.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
givenchy
Resort 2019 Givenchy by Clare Waight Keller Red Crepe Dress w Angel Sleeves & Sequin Detailing
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This was Look 54 of the resort collection and one of the best of the evening pieces from that collection. It was shown in black for the collection and then was also produced in this spectacular all red version for the shops. I love Clare Waight Keller's time as Creative Director for the house. Even though her time there was short there are many really stellar dresses that came from her time there and this is on of them. It is a dress that will only gain in importance as time goes by and it is a definite show stopper.
Clare said of the collection that year “There’s a powerful woman in there that I really love; she’s a very strong character who loves a strong shape—something that gives a real sense of fashion.”, and in the Vogue review of the resort collection, fashion journalist Amy Verner mentioned the black version of the dress in particular along with another comment from Clare; "This marks the first season since the passing of Monsieur de Givenchy in March and Waight Keller hinted that a more intentioned homage might be forthcoming. In the meantime, the collection’s evening looks—specifically the long-sleeved black dress showered with silver embroidery, and the gradient celadon and rust plissé lamé gown—further the couture spirit we’ve seen most recently at the Met Gala and at Cannes. “It’s a real joy to be able to work at both ends of the spectrum,” Keller said. “It’s what I believe in: everything from the really simple everyday to the absolutely fantastic and fabulous.”
The dress is amazing. It is made out of a light weight red crepe through the body mixed with a silk faille for the inset on the lower skirt and silk chiffon for those amazing sleeves. There is also the addition of the teeny tiny sequins and beads at the neck. The red is gorgeous and it is that vivid true red that will flatter most skin tones. The the dress is cut in a long minimalist sheath that widens out softly as it near the hem. The neckline is scooped and the dress is meant to skim over you from bust to hips before it starts to do that soft flare out on the lower skirt. The upper portion of the bodice is finished with vertical rows of tiny red sequins topped with tiny round red seed beads. These are set across the shoulders and then angle down to a point. The lower skirt is finished with a panel of silk faille that is just a touch of a shade lighter than the crepe fabric. This runs across the full front of the skirt and angles up on an angle so that it is the opposite of the angle of the sequins at the neck. This is a very subtle detail that adds beautiful impact to the dress. The sleeves are the absolute star of the show. Starting at each shoulder a silk chiffon caped sleeve Falls over the top of your arm and then widen out to cascade all the way to the hem and slightly passed. They are open underneath so this gives them the ability to catch the slightest bit of air in billow out around and behind you when you move. It's the perfect touch of drama that softens the rest of the dress. All this extra detailing shows the high quality in making this. The dress appears to have never been worn and it is in its original extra long supermodel length. It is absolutely amazing and the dress originally retailed at just under the 9k mark. It appears to have never been worn or worn very little. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a red silk and closes at the back with a hidden set zipper. The address is in its original length and appears to have never been worn. Tagged a modern Givenchy 36
Sleeves: 63"
Slightly inset shoulders: 13"
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from neck to longest point of the hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4378
Reference Photos: (1) Resort 2019 Givenchy, Look 54. / (2) Credit unknown.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
philip hulitar
Exceptional 1950s Philip Hulitar Couture Chanpagne Silk Satin Strapess Dress w Elaborate Gathered Panels
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Philip Hulitar designed under his own namesake label from 1949 to his retirement in 1964 so his pieces fall in a very defined window for dating. He was known for his sophisticated dresses and evening gowns. Shortly after the launch of his label a journalist gushed that; 'The star of a gifted designer has risen recently on the fashion horizon'. Prior to launching his own label, Mr Hulitar was the in-house designer and head of the women's dress division for Bergdorf Goodmans for 18 years. His work is amazing. This would absolutely make for an amazing wedding dress for the bride or as an alternative dress in a more extended wedding celebration. And of course it could also be worn to any event. It is just beautiful.
This dress so beautiful to see. The fabric is that rich ivory champagne colored silk that seems to have been done nest during this time period. The cut of the dress is magical. The bodice is fitted and strapless and I love how it has a slight curve across the top of the bodice. Inside it is boned to help to hold the shape that you see. There is a little bow at one side for detailing that is so pretty. It is cut to follow your every curve. The waist is brought in but there is no horizontal seam there to break the eye. Instead it is held in place inside so you just get this beautiful unbroken curve to shape the body. The skirt curves over the hips and then widens out to fall to the floor in a stunning expanse of silk. The entire dress is shaped by the seam and the use of long vertical panels which give the skirt the volume that you see. You cod make it even fuller by adding a full crinoline underneath too. On the front and back are those inset panels of the same fabric bit for the panels they have been hand gathered across. This creates these long and wide panel of intricately gathered silk that run the full length of the dress. I love how they are used to add to the hourglass shape of the dress by being set wide across the bust, coming in at the waits and then expanding out across the width of the skirt. It does the same at the back but in a not so exaggerated way. The back is cut slightly longer for a beautiful sweep of fabric there. It is just a beautiful and rare piece of 1950s couture. Excellent condition with small notes below.
Fully lined in a tea coloured silk organza and closes at the back with a hand set metal zipper. Hand finishes throughout. Boning through the bodice. Beautifully made. The inner lining has a variation throughout that of course does not effect the outer dress at all. I see a tiny foxing mark on one side of the outer skirt and the edge under the arm has started to give on one side and it is just starting a tiny on the other. These could easily be altered out by reducing the width of the band there a little. Please see the photos after the label shot. The construction throughout is to demi-couture standards. The colour is a bit more ivory then how it photoed. You could easily alter this one down if needed
Bust: to 18" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to a C cup at the front
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 53" from top of bodice to front hem and 62" to the back hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG
Item# DD4373
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill tice
Versatile 1981 Bill Tice Full Length Pleated Peach Coloured Jersey Coat w Gold Cord Detailing
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I love all of the pieces by Bill Tice that I bring into the shop. Most, including this one, were made in the 1980-1981 time period. His easy-to-wear and glamorous jersey pieces have been worn by countless celebrities for the red carpet and events. Every girl that has bought one of his pieces through me has absolutely loved it. This is the first time I have had one of these long open jackets in this peach the shop and I'm absolutely obsessed with it. And I just out a peach dress from the same label that would match this perfectly. You can see that here.
It is made of a soft peach jersey that is meant to mimic the feel of silk jersey. This is one of those things that is a fail-safe piece that you know is going to work every time you put it on. This fabric has the added bonus of traveling very well. It is the kind of piece you can throw into your suit case and slip on over just about anything upon arrival with either flats or heels and you are instantly ready to walk out the door. It is cut to feel long and slim with pleats running down its full length. It has gold cording that defines the collar, the bodice and back, around the arms and the cuffs. There's also a long stripe of the gold cording that follows the ties that close it at the neck. To wear it you just slip it on and tie it at the neck with those ties. The fabric is very light so when you move this has a ton of movement and will billow out around and behind you. It's fantastic. Excellent condition.
Unlined through the body and slips on to wear. The easy cut and open front should allow it to fit a range of sizes
Sleeves: 24"
Slightly inset shoulders: 14.5"
Bust: to 26" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist-hips: 26"+ flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4370
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
geoffrey beene
Stunning c 1990 Geoffrey Beene Strapless Sequin Bodice & Floral Silk Taffeta Dress w Shawl
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Geoffrey Beene was one of the most awarded designers in the US. There is a currently an exhibit running of his work for the 2023 year titled MOVE: The Modern Cut of Geoffrey Beene. I wanted to share the exhibit notes because they sum his career so well saying 'At his core, Beene was a fashion rebel who ignored trends, instead preferring to design garments that began as geometric shapes and evolved into silhouettes that moved naturally with the human form. His intuitive understanding of the body informed fashions that were unparalleled in their combination of luxury, thoughtful design, and comfort. Beene’s colorful, imaginative creations have been recognized with many accolades, including eight Coty American Fashion Critics Awards and three Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards. His work has also been celebrated through various exhibitions at institutions across the nation.'
This was a favoured silhouette of Geoffrey Beene that he was doing primarily through the late 1980s and into the very early 1990s. When looking through some of the images from the exhibit on his work there were dresses with very similar cuts from the 1990 season. It is a very pretty dress and very striking once on. The bodice is strapless and then it is completely covered in overlapping glossy black sequins at the front. At the back it is the same silk taffeta as the rest of the dress and I love how part of that extends and wraps around to the front just under the bust. This is all attached and adds a beautiful detail that really reflects his work from this time period. The bodice is meant to be fitted and has light boning inside to hold it in place. The top of it dips in the center and peaks slightly on either side to emphasize the bust. The waist is nipped in and then from there the skirt is cut beautifully full to the hem. The silk is all gathered into the waist and this is what helps give it that shape that you see. I love the oversized floral print that covers the silk and how there are these little woven dots running over the very top of the silk. These catch the light differently and are also a subtle nod to his love if dots in his work. Inside there is a black silk lining and the edge of that lining is finished with a sequin detailed lace. This peaks out from below the curving hem of the skirt and ties all the elements of the dress together. The dress can be worn on its own or with the matching shawl piece that is original to the dress. This extra wide shawl is caught up at each end in an elaborate twisted fabric flower that anchors it and allows it to open between for the volume you see. It can be worn numerous ways and I have photoed some of those here. You could also wear it over the head for a very glamorous look. It is so pretty. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a fine black silk and closes with a back hidden set zipper. Ribbon finished hem. Light boning through the bodice. The shawl is unlined with no closures
Bust: 17-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Bodice: 10.5" from top to waist
Skirt: 36" from waist to longest points of hem
Shawl: 100" x 46.5"
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4353
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jean paul gaultier
Exquisite Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Nude & Black Net 3D 'Script' Dress
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This dress is a work of art and instantly recognizable as being a Gaultier. His career spans decades. His first show was in 1976 and his avant garde designs quickly gained him the reputation of being fashion's 'l'enfant terrible'. His designs mixed cultures with abandon, gender norms were blurred and the body was presented encased in ways unimaginable prior to his own unique vision. His first Haute Couture collection debuted in 1997 and his final show where he was the designer was in Spring 2020. He has since then had guest designers come in for his couture collections and I love this solution for him as a designer. Gaultier couture rarely comes to market and this one is exceptional. It is also very well documented.
The Fall 2000 Haute Couture presentation was called 'Paris and its Muses'. I have included the original runway reference photos here and tyou can see that this is the twin of the runway look. Doutzen Kroes was photoed in it for Vanity Fair that season and in 2013 its twin dress was featured in the exhibit "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk". I was invited and attended the opening of that show in San Francisco and I love having this dress in hand now. This dress was obviously a favourite of Jean Paul's because he also chose to recreate a version of it for his Fall 2018 Haute Couture collection. That 2018 version was then worn by Rita Ora for the 2018 MTV VMAs. I believe that this may have been the only dress that was produced beyond the runway version
The dress is made from a layer of fine black silk netting that falls over an interior nude coloured lingerie weight stretch silk. This makes it very easy to wear and be comfortable on despite the dramatic feel it has. Onto the silk netting are hand made and hand applied letters made of a black silk chiffon shaped over stiffened netting inside them. This is how they get that 3D dimensional feel that you see. It is fascinating to think that the entire dress would have had to have been careful planned out prior to its creation. Every single word that you see running over its surface would have had to have been laid out and placed on the netting for it to all work before it was even started. The degree that each word would need to curve over the body would have had to be planned for and then each word meticulously sewn onto the netting by hand like a puzzle. The letters cover the dress from head to toe and include 'Cherie', 'Mon Amour', 'Jean Paul Gaultier', 'Paris' and more. It falls from the shoulders and skims over the body and then widens out dramatically as it nears the hem. Where the words are set along the hem the hem is actually done to follow their shapes. A stunning couture detail. The letters also cleverly act as support to hold the fullness of the dress and are in a way like having a crinoline but one that is done in letters and attached on the outside of the skirt rather then worn underneath and hidden. The entire dress is suspended from the shoulders from straps that are just wide enough to accommodate the lettering that runs over them. The front has a low scoop and the back dips into a low V for some bare skin to show. It skims over the waist and then it flares out dramatically to the hem. The entire dress is bias cut so moves beautifully over the body. All of the seams are finished with proper couture techniques and it is as beautiful to see as the outside. This is a dress that would have taken hundreds of hours to complete and you really are wearing a piece of art. I am obsessed. Excellent condition with some very minor notes below
Composed of two layers, the inner nude lingerie weight stretch silk and then the netted layer over that. The inner layer closes with a zipper and the outer layer snaps to close with a tightly spaced series of tiny snaps. There is some minor stress to the netting around the seam of the armholes. I see a couple of the ends of a word that have popped through the silk a bit and some small tiny snags/ stress to the netting here and there. All of these are very minor. Please see the photos after the Couture label. The dress otherwise looks to have been worn very little if at all. Made by hand to Haute Couture standards. It's proper Haute Couture tag is present and it comes to me direct from the original couture client . It is extraordinary and rare.
Bust: 15-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 15 " flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 62" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3612
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Fall 2000 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. / (4) Doutzen Kroes in Jean Paul Gaultier couture from the 2000 collection for Vanity Fair, 2009. / (5-9) Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition at the Grand Palais, 2015. / (10) Fall 2018 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Runway Collection. Look 34. / (11-13) Rita Ora in Jean Paul Gaultier at the 2018 MTV VMAs.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
loris azzaro
Incredible 1973 Loris Azzaro Couture Black Flame Sequin Detailing & Feather Light Silk Chiffon
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Loris Azzaro launched his label in 1967 and quickly defined his trademark looks by using ornate fabrics and avant garde ways of defining the body. Some of the most beautiful women in the world wore his clothing including Marisa Berenson, Raquel Welch, Jane Birkin, Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. It was a label that defined sexiness and had a certain French flare that women world-wide loved. By the seventies and eighties he was experimenting with volume and proportions and new fabrics that at the time were all cutting edge. This is a stunning example of his work during the mid-seventies. When researching we found several examples of dresses from 1973 that utilized the same jagged flame pattern and sequins against silk chiffon. I've included those so you can get an idea of how great this looks on a body. This is a label that I really love and am always happy to find pieces from.
This is a gorgeous dress. It is really one that will come to life even more once on an actual body and I hope the photos convey enough of how fabulous it is because when worn this one will be even better. The entire body of the dress is covered with densely applied black sequins and these catch the light from every angle. This covers you from that jagged design on the bodice down and over the hips. And because of the way the pattern is done on the bodice the sequins also extends down to cover each arm. I love it. Where it meets the skirt is finished in the same jagged pointed pattern all the way around. And then what is perhaps my favourite detail is that the skirt is actually made up of individual patterns that are each sat up and into the points. There are 12 of them all together and they go all the way around you. Each panel is a single layer of black silk chiffon that is incredibly light in weight. When you move sit or walk they have tremendous movement around you. And because each is an individual panel that is only attached at the top you also get glimpses of bare skin between each panel. It's incredibly sexy. He then used that same silk chiffon at the top of the chest and down the back where it dips into a low scoop. It buttons down the back can you see a hint of skin between each button. I absolutely love the way that the jagged flame pattern defines the bust and runs all the way around the scoop at the back. It makes it instantly recognizable as an Azzaro piece. It is really gorgeous. If there was ever a dress that needed a body inside of it to bring it to life, this is it. It is stupendous once on. Excellent condition
Fully lined through the body in a black silk and the rest is as described above. Each sleeve is unlined so you get a bit of transparency between the sequins. It closes with a buttoned back. Each sleeve has a small zipper closure. Where is one of his signature strapless bras attached inside the bodice which could be easily removed if you wish. The colour is a perfect solid black. Any green or any other colours you see are just the light reflection from the camera
Sleeves: 23" and are 12" around the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 16-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 59" from top of shoulder to the longest point of hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4347
Reference Photos: (1-3) Marisa Berenson in a Loris Azzaro. October 1973. Photo: Michael Holtz. / (4) The cover of the book "Azzaro" for Assouline - Marisa Berenson and Loris Azzaro photographed in 1973, for issue 604 of L'Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris, by Roland Bianchini. / (5) Image from the book "Azzaro: Fifty Sparkling Years" / (6) Magazine spread featuring a model in Azzaro, 1973.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill blass
Fabulous Spring 1984 Bill Blass Runway Purple One Shoulder Silk Dress w Pink Bow & Ruffle
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Bill Blass launched his label in 1970 when he bought out the Maurice Rentner label and re-launched it under his own name. Blass was arguably one of the most famous of the American designers. His forte was the ability to mix simple styles with luxurious materials and his evening wear in particular seemed to have a way of flattering the wearer. He knew how to walk that line perfectly. This is a gorgeous example of his work from this time period. It is beyond gorgeous and it is one of my favorites from him. I have had this dress in the shop before and at last we have been able to date it. It is from the Spring 1984 collection
I have had the twin of this dress in the shop in the past and I love it more every time I find it. The main body of the dress is made from a deep royal purple silk that has a vivid pink ruffle that runs all the way down one whole side. The way that the pink is attached to the dress gives the dress the feel that that it has been wrapped around the bust and then tied into a dramatic bow at the shoulder with the ties trailing down your side. It actually is all attached and a part of the dress but I love how it makes the dress feel. The pink is gathered and warps all the around the bust and then is caught up at side to create that gorgeous bow that you see. The other shoulder is left completely bare for a little skin to show. Under the bow the pink silk runs down the side of the dress in an extravagant ruffle finish all the way to the hem. The inner bust has boning to support you and there is a little hidden strap under the bow to keep it in place. The body of this is cut loose and easy and it widens out it falls to the floor. It is extraordinary. Even more beautiful in person. It appears to have been worn a very little if at all. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a deep purple silk. The inner bodice closes with its own zipper and then the dress zips to close over that with a hidden set zipper. Lightly boned through the inner bodice.
Bust: 16.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam and the outer waist goes to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 56" from top of shoulder strap to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4109
Reference Photos: (1-2) Fall 1984 Bill Blass Runway, Model Dalma Callado. / (3-4) Cherie, Owner of Shrimpton Couture, by Erin Leydon.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Exceptional Dated 1986 Arnold Scaasi Strapless Floral Print Silk Gazar Dress w Full Lower Skirts
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This dress is by Arnold Scassi and I love the choice of sequin and net that he used for this one. Scaasi worked under Charles James at the start of his career and many of his dressed reflect this early influence. His boutique line was launched in 1984 and was high end ready-to-wear and very expensive. Pieces from it often have a demi-couture level finish and really are an extension of his couture line. This one is especially fabulous and just is one of those pieces that feel joyful to look at.
Yards and yards of a brilliantly coloured floral silk gazar have been used in this Arnold Scassi dress and it is just exceptional. This particular piece is a little extra fascinating because it actually has Bergdorf Goodman tag inside with the exact date this dress this dress was delivered so we know that it was is from 1986. I love that. This dress varies from his usual boutique pieces as it was an obvious special order piece and it has mote the feel and construction of his main couture line. I would get that it was based on one of his ready made pieces, but then was a special order it would've been a one of as far as measurements and perhaps she even changed the design as well. So it was most likely made in his atelier for this specific woman so is half way between his RTW and couture line. The silk used for this dress is just incredible. It is feather light but the gazar has enough structure to it that it holds that beautiful shape perfectly. All the fullness that you see are because if the fabric choice and the seam work and yet it sill moves and floats around you effortlessly once on. It is strapless and on the bodice the silk has been gathered over to one side. This adds detail and also is how he has shaped the dress to create and highlight the curves of the body. The bodice glides over the waist and then extends past and below the hip.Again a trick to exaggerates your curves. The skirt is set into the seam there and it has a wonderfully full feel. When you walk the movement that this creates is exceptional. It is as good inside too. The innermost skirt is made from layers of a fine green silk with a broad band of horsehair taping inside the bottom hem of both the exterior skirt and the inner silk lining to help hold the volume. Between those layers is a third layer whose bottom is finished with layers of silk net tulle. It is just exquisite. Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a fine green silk organza and the skirt is lined as described above. Lightly boned through the bodice. It closes with a hidden set side zipper. Hand finishes
Bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam with room to a B or small C cup at the front
Waist: 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 52.5" from top of the bodice to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4314
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Pretty Little 1950s Jobere New York Brilliant Green Silk Satin Dress w Bead & Rhinestone Detail
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I am very excited to bring you our latest mini capsule collection. This is one of nine dresses from a single owner collection. Her collection was lovingly sourced over decades and she has decided that it is time let them back out into the world for others to enjoy. For this capsule we have moved forward to the 1940s and 1950s. Really good examples from this era are becoming increasingly hard to find and these are all gorgeous little examples of that time period. This is just a tiny sampling of her overall collection and I hope to have more of these capsules for you in the future.
This stunning little dress is from the Jobere label out of New York and it is made from a bright emerald dress silk satin mixed with a cotton muslin and beaded detailing. This is a fabulously beautiful little labelled 1950s piece. It is very well-made. The colour is spectacular and I love the contrast the green has with that detailing that runs around the top of the bodice. The panel there is made out of a pale nude cotton muslin. Its edges are finished with hand done bead-work and prong set glass rhinestones. The neckline sits wide across so that you see the collarbone. It curves up and over the shoulders to create tiny cap shoulders. The green falls under that and there’s a bit of an illusion that it’s extremely low busted by the way the green is curved underneath the bust. The waist nips in and then the skirt flares out. The dress has its own built in underskirts so it is full on its own. For some of these photos I added a light crinoline but it is full even without. It is very pretty and fresh feeling. Excellent condition with a note below.
The dress is fully lined and has its own attached inner tulle skirts. It closes with a back zipper. The beads and rhinestones are hand applied. Slightest barely fade at the edge under the arm. There is light fraying to the very edges of the shoulders - please see the photos after the label shot.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: open
Length: 42" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# D644
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Stunning 1980s Arnold Scaasi Couture Black Silk Strapless Dress w Shocking Pink Ruffle
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Arnold Scaasi was born Arnold Isaacs in Montreal and the name Scassi is simply his own surname in reverse. He studied in Montreal and in Paris, apprenticed at the house of Paquin and then worked with the legendary Charles James. In 1964 he opened own couture salon. He dressed Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall, Diahann Carroll and Elizabeth Taylor. He dressed several first ladies including Mamie Eisenhower, Hillary Clinton and both the Bush first ladies. He even once bragged that he refused to give Jackie clothes for free. He was the man behind the scandalous 1969 Barbra Streisand sheer trouser outfit that she collected her Oscar in, and he was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996. The dress is from his main label and these were extremely well made pieces. It is so dramatic and in being so also so very Scaasi. He himself once said 'I am not a minimalist designer! Clothes with some adornment are more interesting to look at and more fun to wear.'
You can easily see the influence of Arnold having worked for Charles James in this piece. The lines are dramatic and yet elegant. The silk is that incredibly rich feeling silk that drapes and sits beautifully. The dress is strapless and is gathered from there to just past the hip. The gathers are all held in place along the side and this brings in the cut so that it follows and highlights your curves. The skirt is set under that and the seam is done on a slight angle to add visual length to the dress. On the opposite side that seam extends down and into a deep point to give the body length there as well. The skirt is quite full and the shape and volume that you see is held by the inner construction which is quite amazing. The innermost layer closest to you is a fine black silk that is finished at the hem with a broad inset band of stiffened netting so that the shape is kept. Over this lay four full layers of tulle netting and then the outermost layers sits over all of that and even that top layer is self-lined in a black silk organza. The final perfect touch is that extraordinary ruffle that is set along the side and runs down the front all the way to the bottom of the gathered bodice. The ruffle is black on one side and then the other is finished in a shocking pink silk. This unexpected shock of color is fantastic. I have placed it to one side but the dress is so well made that you could wear it almost anyway around and just change where the zipper sits and the back or sides.Excellent condition.
Fully lined in a fine black tissue silk. The bodice is lightly boned on the ruffle side and it closes with a back metal zipper on the opposite side. The inner skirt construction is described above. Hand finished throughout.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 23" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: approx 18" from top of bodice to dropped seam
Skirt: 39" from dropped seam to hem with 4" turned under the top layer
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4305
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
arnold scaasi
Gorgeous 1980s Arnold Scaasi Black Net Dress w Multi Colour Sequins & Asymmetrical Skirt
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This dress is by Arnold Scassi and I love the choice of sequin and net that he used for this one. Scaasi worked under Charles James at the start of his career and many of his dressed reflect this early influence. His boutique line was launched in 1984 and was high end ready-to-wear and very expensive. Pieces from it often have a demi-couture level finish and really are an extension of his couture line. This one is especially fabulous and just is one of those pieces that feel joyful to look at.
This gorgeous little dress is constructed from multiple layers of feather light black tulle net that has hundreds of sequins sewn onto the very top layer. The sequins absolutely bring the dress to life. They are a mix of red, green, blue and gold and cover every square inch. The light bounces beautifully off them as you move. The top netted layer sits over multiple inner layers which is what gives the dress the volume that you see. The dress is strapless and the bodice is kept simple so the sequins take center stage. It is gathers down one side and the seam at the bottom is set on a sharp angle that dips down very low on one side. The skirt explodes out from that seam and that angled cut of the bodice is followed by the angle of the hem as is cascades towards the floor lower on one side. There are yards and yards of fabric in the skirt. Under that very top sequin embellished layer is another layer of tulle, then two layers of a stiffened netting and an inner black silk layer beside your skin. A flower made of the same black netting and sequins, with a black bow on top, sits on the one hip for the final perfect touch. It is fabulous and just a joy to see and wear. Excellent condition with a note below.
The skirt is fully lined in layers as described above. The bodice is lined in a black silk with interior boning. The dress closes with a side zipper. The occasional missing sequin here and there but no large bare spots. There is a touch of patina on the sequins here and there.
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13" flat across from side seam to side seam
Inner hips: to 22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 12" from top of bodice to waist
Skirt: 27" from waist to shortest part of the hem, approx 40" to the longest
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4304
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.
bill blass
Stunning Fall 1970 Bill Blass Pink Quilted SIlk Floral Pattern Metallic Dress w Banded Waist
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This is one of two dresses that I have in the shop from Blass from this time period and it is incredible. Bill Blass worked for the Maurice Retner label for 10 years as the chief designer. In 1968 the Bill Blass Inc label became a subsidiary of the Retner label. Then in 1970 he fully bought out his partners at the Maurice Retner label and re-launched it under his own name as Bill Blass Ltd. 1970 was the same year that he won his third Coty American Fashion Critics' Award and with it, his lifetime membership in the Coty Hall of Fame. By 1980 the company was doing 20 million dollars in revenue. He was arguably one of the most famous of all the American designers. By the eighties his work was even more ornate and luxurious than what he had done in the past. Prices for dresses could be as high as $5000 (which would be about $15,000 today). He was once asked why his clothes were so expensive and he replied, 'I'm an avid believer that we have to have clothes made in this country. Therefore we pay more money. ... The cost of labor and fabrication is what makes the clothing expensive.'
This is an exceptional dress. It is a stunning example of his work during this time period and these metallic pieces are among my favorites by him. This one even more so with its pretty pink colour and extraordinary fabric. The fabric is the perfect shade of soft pink used to create a floral design and that is mixed with a soft green for the leaves. Some of the pattern is raised and has been embroidered into the fabric. The thread used is incredibly soft and this adds yet another dimenesion to the dress. Woven over and through the silk is a muted gold lurex thread that give the fabric its metallic glitz and makes it gleam and glitter in the light. This same thread is also used to create the horizontal rows that you see. The gold covers the dress from head to toe. The neckline is a cut into a high V and the bodice crosses over itself and skims over you. This is then is balanced beautifully by those spectacular sleeves. Each sleeve is cut extra long so when it is on an actual body it will bunch up a bit on the arm for added texture. Set just under the bust is a wide band of the same fabric that wraps all the way around you and snaps and hooks into place. The crossed over bodice above and this wise high set belt is what gives the dress its nod to a kimono and obi. This tops the skirt that is set to widen out as it nears the floor. On one side and extending down from where it crosses on the bust it has a soft pleat that falls all the way to the floor. This adds a little extra detail and volume and it also hides a small pocket set along the inner seam. The hem has been let down at some point and it is supermodel long as a result. Blass did a soft version of a kimono inspired dress for this collection as well and that one was photoed on Candice Bergen. I have included it here as they do share some similarities. This dress is an absolutely beautiful. Excellent condition with a note below.
The fabric is self backed in a muslin throughout. You step into it and then it closes with a series of hidden snaps. The belt is attached and it snaps and hooks into place. Hand finishes. The hem was let down at some point and it is ribbon finished. It poufs a bit at the edge as there are spots where it was stitch in to sit proper when it is hemmed. If you needed the full length you could just take those out. It could be worn as is but I've left it so you could redo the hem to your perfect length. You can see a slight grubbiness here and there were the hem was. The hem was very deep and the length turned up under the sleeves is also very deep.
Sleeves: approx 25" w 3" turned under. It is 16" around the widest part of the upper arm
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Seam under the bust: 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Natural waist: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 10" from top of shoulder to seam under the bust
Skirt: 52" from seam under the bust to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4293
Referece photo: Candice Bergen Wearing A Bill Blass Dress, Vogue 1970
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
chanel
Spring 2006 Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld Haute Couture Pant Set w Detachable Collar & Sleeves
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This is an incredible example of Karl Lagerfeld's Haute Couture work. I am so glad this was a runway piece because it was almost impossible to photo correctly on the dress form. The elaborate sleeves that you see coming out from under the jacket are actually separate pieces altogether. You can see on the runway shots how beautifully they sit on an actual arm. My client opted for a more sleek jacket that did not take her in it at the waist as much as the runway look did and a more classic trouser. If you preferred that cinched in waist look you could easily belt the jacket. The simpler silhouette of this jacket allows for more versatility and styling. Sarah Mower said on her review of the show that; ‘It was pure Chanel, crystallized to a point of perfection only witnessed in haute couture…. Karl Lagerfeld began this mostly black-and-white collection with a new treatment of the Chanel suit…. These were paired with flat white go-go boots, which were not referenced from the sixties, but from a pair Coco (always ahead of her time) was wearing in a photograph from the decade before. That allusion and others demonstrate just how deftly Lagerfeld—Chanel historian par excellence—marshals his knowledge. He sprinkles the camellias, the satin bows, the organdy collars, and the bound edges so lightly that they become playful thrills—not belabored underscorings of theme or "brand identity."…. Lagerfeld reinvents the house signatures to pique the fantasies of today's young woman—and that he does just beautifully.’
The lines of this suit are crisp and sharp and the tailoring is immaculate. This is sharply contrasted with the dandified collar and arm pieces. It is incredible to have the full suit. This set includes the jacket, pants, inner top, collar and both arm pieces. The suit is made from a fine black wool that is light in weight and has a slight texture. It is just heavy enough to hold the shape beautifully. The jacket is cut to have a slight oversize feel through the body. The shoulders are shaped and the sleeves fall to just past the elbow. There is no collar. The neckline comes down the front in a simple V and then it zips to close down the remainder of the front. Two sleek little pockets are stacked on top of each other on either side of the waist for some detailing. It is cut to be more straight through the body and then flares out slightly at the hem, falling to just past the hip. The pants are classic and simple in their cut. They are flat fronted and cut to taper down to the ankles. A sharp fold runs down the front and the back of each leg. The inside of the suit is as immaculate as the outside and it is entirely made by hand. Every stitch is perfection. Under that goes a little sleeveless ivory silk top with a small neat collar. The top is easy fitting through the body. The top three buttons are finished with rhinestones and enamel and then the rest of the buttons are hidden under a flap of silk. Three additional pieces come with the suit. The first is a detachable silk organdy collar that goes around the neck and adds a romantic flounce with a large soft bow and ties. This gives the suit an unexpected touch of drama. Next is a pair of detachable sleeves. The sleeves are also made out of the same silk organdy as the collar and slip on the lower arm. Both those and the collar have a nod to the regency era when this type of sleeve and collar were all the rage. The sleeves are finished with a row of those beautiful buttons and the ends are ruffled. Every piece has been entirely made by hand and all the proper Chanel couture labels and numbered tapes are present. I love that with this one set you have so many pieces to mix and match with other things you own. It allows you to be able to sprinkle a bit of vintage Haute Couture throughout your wardrobe. This is a rare opportunity to own a piece of true couture by one of the most important designers of our lifetime. Excellent condition with a minor note below.
The jacket and pants are hand lined in a fine black silk. The jacket closes with a hidden zipper under the front panel of fabric. The pockets appear to be functional and all four still have their original tacking in place. The pants zip to close with a hidden set side zipper. The toppings to close at the front. The collar snaps into place and the sleeves slip onto the arm with functional buttons running down the cuffs. The edges of the collar and cuffs have intentional raw edges. I see one small area of breakage in the silk on the edge of one cuff. Please see the photo after all of the label shots. I see one rhinestone missing off one button on each cuff and one on the top. All of the pieces are made and finished by hand to couture standards. Proper couture labels present with couture tape are present on all pieces but the sleeves. Sourced from the original couture client
Jacket
Sleeves: 18"
Shoulders: 15.5"
Bust: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 16" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 22.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 34.5" from neck to head
Pant
Waist: 15.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 20.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 39" from waist to hem with 1.5" turned under
Inseam: 28.5" from inner seam to hem
Rise: 15.5" from back waist to inner seam
Top
Bust: to 20" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" from neck to head
Collar
14" around and the snaps could be adjusted up or down a bit if needed
Cuffs
Length: 13" including the extended cuff, 9" without
10" around the upper edge and narrows to 7" around the wrist
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4263
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2006 Chanel Couture Runway, Look 9. Model: Svetlana.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
bill gibb
Museum Held 1970s Bill Gibb Black Liquid Jersey Dress w MOP Buttons & Extensive Beading
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Bill Gibb was one of the most influential designers in 1970s Britain and his clothes were worn by the rich, the famous and the beautiful. Much of his work verged on couture and he was unrelenting in striving for perfection. His work has a high fantasy element to it. Every piece I bring into the shop is very special and the range he had was incredible. I recently had a deep brown version of this dress in the shop only a couple of weeks ago and I'm very pleased to have another one so soon. This dress is also a little extra special because its twin in ivory was part of the 'Great Names in Fashion' exhibit at the Fashion Museum Bath.
The body of the dress is made of a fluid black jersey fabric that is light in weight and drapes amazingly on the body. It cascades and flows to the floor from the densely beaded panel that sits across the upper bust. A second matching panel is also set at the back. Both panels have been completely hand covered with a design that is made out of hundreds of ivory and gold glass tube beads. Along the one side of the front panel there is a row of hand carved mother or pearl buttons that runs from the top of the shoulder to just past the waist. The buttons are functional and hold a decorative overlay in place that tops the inner dress. This overlay loops under the opposite arm and wraps around you to the back where it attaches to the panel there. The overly adds this incredible draped Grecian feel to the dress and it also gives it added movement when you move. The dress underneath is a long sheath that falls from the shoulders and widens out slightly as it nears the hem. The sleeves are long and each one ends with more of the MOP buttons. The entire dress is detailed with these strips of tiny little raised beads on a silver strip. These follow all of the edges of the dress and he even use them for all of the long interior seams of the inner dress even though you don't easily see them. I just love that he did that and it just shows you the attention that was paid to dresses during this time period as opposed to modern pieces where they probably wouldn't have bothered to put extra detailing where no one would ever see it. The strips add a touch of weight and help the dress to fall perfectly around you and they also catch the light for added glamour. During this time period these jerseys would have been cutting edge fabrics and an unusual choice for a designer to use and considered very avant garde. It is stunning and a beautiful example of Bill Gibb's work and its never a bad thing when it is a proven museum worthy piece. Excellent condition with a tiny note below
The dress is unlined and slips over the head top wear. The attached panel buttons into place over the interior dress. Each cuff has loop and buttons to close. It appears have been worn very little if at all. The loose and easy cut should allow it to fit a range of sizes. I have given the comfortable range of measurements while laying flat. On a smaller frame it will just drape more. The striped applique at the top of one shoulder has a couple of beads missing on one part. Please see the photo after the label shot
Sleeves: 21.5"
Slightly dropped shoulders: 15"
Bust: 15-18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 16-22" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 58" from top of shoulder to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4232
Reference Photos: Bill Gibb Dress on display at the "Great Names of Fashion Display" Exhibit at Fashion Museum Bath.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
Micro Mini Spring 2014 Anthony Vaccarello Runway Strapless Mini Dress w Gold Dome Buttons
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Anthony Vaccarello is currently the Artistic Director of Yves Saint Laurent and his rise to fame was meteoric. He started at Fendi under Karl Lagerfeld where he stayed for two years and then in 2009 he moved to Paris and launched his own self-named line with five looks. In 2011 his label won the ANDAM prize. One year later his muse, model Anja Rubik, wore a look to the 2012 Met gala and he rose to international fame as she went viral worldwide in it. By 2014 his collections sold out the second they dropped and were wait listed worldwide.'Girls are their most beautiful during their holidays,' Anthony Vaccarello explained backstage. 'I wanted to try to bring swim to the city.' His clever cuts for this show felt fresh and new and they were very sexy. Dresses like this one were cut micro mini short and were as bare as you could get. The twin of this one walked the runway for Look 14 on Cindy Bruna and its spectacular. This one is new with tags and has never been worn.
The dress is strapless with a built-in inner added corset for support. The dress is shaped through a series of vertical panels piece together with long seams running from the top of the strapless bust to the bottom of the mini skirt. The half seam at the front waist drops down on an angle to create length through the body and add tot eh sarong illusion that the skirt has. One side of the skirt is cut exceptionally short and then the other side drops down at the front to create the illusion of a wrapped around you piece. This is what gives the dress a sarong feel and brings in that swimsuit/vacation feel that he mentioned as being part of his influence. Fused onto the front of the skirt are huge cabochon feeling gold domed metal buttons. These buttons were applied to many of the pieces throughout the collection and gave everything a slight play on military dressing. The dress is short, fitted and meant to show off all your curves. It is sexy AF. Excellent condition
Fully lined in a black rayon and has an inner additional lightly phone bodice to help shape. It closes with a hidden set back zipper. The colour is a black that in some light has a blue feel to it. All the original tags are attached and has never been worn. Tagged a modern 38
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: to 13.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 24" to hem and 30" to the longest point at the front
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD4233
Reference Photos/Video: Spring 2014 Anthony Vaccarello, Look 14. Model: Cindy Bruna.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.
christian dior
Gorgeous Resort 2018 Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri Stripe Knit Dress w Fringing
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The twin of this dress walked the runway as Look 38 for the 2018 resort season. The show was held in the remote Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve in Calabasas, California. The show was star packed with Rihanna, Charlize Theron and Solange Knowles there alongside the fashion pack. The inspiration for the show came from the archives and Chiuri said 'she went to the archives, where she came across the house founder’s Lascaux collection of 1951, inspired by the ancient cave paintings discovered in southwestern France a decade earlier.' This dress to me also harkened back to the earlier Galliano era and the times that he did knits in a similar colurway. It was a favorite of the street style crowd and it is a gorgeous little creation. I believe that I read at the time these were all hand knit.
The dress is easy to wear and makes a huge visual impact that I love. It is made of a knit virgin wool that is light and feels fantastic once on the body. I love the horizontal stripes of colour that were meant to depict desert sunsets. The weave is loose and open so that you will see either your bare skin underneath or whatever you decide to wear underneath it. It is cut to skim over the body. The neckline is a wide boat neck and then it travels down over the bust, waist and hips, opening up to be quite flared as it reaches the hem. You can see in the reference video that this flare allows the dress to kick out around you when you move. The sleeves are cut to just above the elbow and they are finished with hand knotted yarn tassels in black. These circle the cuffs for pretty detail. These same hand-tied tassels are also set all the way around the hem for added movement there as well. It is just gorgeous. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. Excellent condition
Unlined and slips over the head to wear with no closures. It looks to have been worn very little if at all. Tagged a US4, GB8, FR36, IT40. The knit has considerable stretch. I have put the comfortable range of measurements lying flat and there may be a little bit of room beyond that once on the actual body
Sleeves: approx 15" and are 7-13" around the upper arm and is 12-14" around the cuff above the 2" fringes
Shoulders: no defined seam
Bust: 13-17.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14-18" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 17-25" flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 54" from neck to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-MED
Item# DD4218
Reference Photos/Video: (1-3) Resort 2018 Christian Dior Look 38, Model Zuzu Tadeushuk. / (4-7) Sofie Valkiers in Dior at Paris Fashion Week 2017. / (8) credit unknown.
All items are thoroughly checked over before shipping. Unless noted everything in our shop has been professionally cleaned. All sales are final. Overseas clients will be emailed to obtain agreement to our final sales policy before the order is shipped as per our return policy.