james galanos

Minimalist Early 1960s James Galanos Couture Larger One Shoulder Black Crepe Long Column Dress

In 1951 a 27 year old James Galanos launched his first label called Galanos Originals. By 1954 he had won a Coty award and the Neiman Marcus award. By 1958 he was producing clothing that could range in price from $200 to $3000, an astronomical price for ready-to-wear for that time period. His ready-to-wear line was made close to couture standards and with a level of craftsmanship that was on par with the French couturiers. Galanos was a master cutter and draper and he used many couture techniques in his work. Grace Kelly was an early fan. He was truly one of the great American designers and his work is held in all of the major museums around the world. He is one of my personal favourites. This is a wonderful example of how he could do perfect minimalist dress. The label inside is the one used from 1954-1963.

This is a dress that is extremely well made with a very high level of construction techniques despite its simple appearance. That alone makes it a fabulous piece for me but it has the added bonus of being a hard to find larger size on top. It is a joy to see dresses made to this fine level of workmanship. The dress is made from a black light weight wool crepe that adds a slight texture over the dress. It has just enough weight to hold the intended shape but feels wonderful once on. Everything about the cut is done to highlight and showcase the wonderful sculptural lines you see. The interior is  a fine black silk and the combination of the two fabrics makes the dress feel amazing once on. The top edge of the neckline is cut straight across and then the fabric extends out into a wide stripe that curves up and over one shoulder. There is light boning inside the bodice to give you some support. It skims over the bust, past the waist and then widens out over the hips to fall to the floor in graceful A-line. There is a seam on one side that extends down from the strap and opens just past the bust to create an inverted pleat. This adds a little visual interest to the dress and is what allows it to open as it runs over the body. It also hides a slit on that side that runs up from the hem. Galanos is a designer who cut for the body not the hanger or a form and his work truly comes to life once on. The workmanship is exquisite and to demi-couture standards. Excellent condition.

Lined in a fine black silk through the bodice with light boning and the rest of the dress is lined in a black silk chiffon. It closes with a hand set side zipper. Hand finishes throughout and silk ribbon finished interior seams. It appears to have been worn very little if at all. 

Bust: 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Interior waist: 15" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 21.5 flat across from side seam to side seam
Length: 60" from top of shoulder to hem with 2.75" turned under

Modern Sizing Equivalent: MED-LRG

Item# DD4697

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